19. DB BRASSERIE
No one was happier than yours truly when Daniel Boulud decided to return to Las Vegas — after a four year hiatus. And return he has, with a top toque in the kitchen, and you won’t find better, unfussy French food in town right now.
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LE CIRQUE
Le Cirque is so timeless, so flawless, so confident in what it does, any other year it would most certainly be in the top ten restaurants of Las Vegas. The only reason it is not this year is because 1) the Bellagio effectively divorced itself from the Maccioni family last year, and 2) its very talented young executive chef, Paul Lee, recently left the operation to pursue greener pastures in Los Angeles.
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ELV note: One of our regs — NPC — weighs in with this weighty analysis of the possible reasons for Bon Appetit magazine’s shameless pandering to the cool-at-all-costs crowd. Although we take issue with some of his reasoning (and we see the Bon App list as a desperation move made to change the ‘zines image, not one motivated by actual good taste), there’s no doubt that NPC’s argument may have some credence. As far as we’re concerned, the initials NPC stand for “Notably Perceptive Connoisseur,” and we at ELV are always happy to hear from him.
Dear Eating Las Vegas,
I largely agree with what ELV has said here, but I disagree with some issues you raise, and I think a big chunk of your disgruntlement is misdirected.
Continue reading “Letter of the Week #2: Give Bon Appetit A Break”