So, dig on this new restaurant, friends: YONAKA.  It’s been open for less than a month, but already it’s starting to beat out a lion’s share of the hip Japanese-fusion restaurants on the strip by a country mile, in my opinion.  Granted, we are plagued by those paint-by-numbers sushi joints in disguise, two or three to a casino property (hopefully a tide to be turned by the recent Palazzo top-tier sushi announcement), but honestly the quality and downright artistic creativity I’m seeing here is SHOCKING.

The meal starts out with an Amuse-bouche, mine was a little square of edamame tofu with just a dab of yuzu tobiko roe and maldon salt.  The nuttiness of this, I assure you, groves of nut trees would covet.  Nice to see this small but appreciated wink-and-nod to the coming meal can be practiced off-strip without being contrived.  It’s fun, it’s simple, and the creamy/nutty tofu with just that tiniest bit of citrus and fish comes off pitch-perfect.  Hopes, consider yourselves raised.  Looking back, this was going through my mind.

I'd covet this.

A cursory glance at the menu won’t give any real indicator to the food to come, but once you start noticing menu descriptors like “apple chips” and “kafir lime vinaigrette” and “preserved lemon”, one does begin to wonder.  Mainly choosing with my empty stomach, I got the item with two types of fishes (my stomach is not logical…), Konpa: Atlantic Salmon and Hamachi, with yellow bell pepper, almonds, tiny slices of preserved apricot, super thin jalapeno wheels, and almost transparently thin dehydrated tomato chips, all in an orange ponzu.  Whew, that’s quite a list of elements, but it really is a bit of a salad in and around and highlighting some extremely superb fish.  The duo of rich, fatty fish cut into sashimi bits contrasted well with the bright, tangy ponzu (like all their sauces, made in-house), sweet preserved apricot, and surprisingly addictive tomato chips.  Perhaps most surprising was palate of textures presented, making each bite a fun little game of “find the best combo” (although, if that puzzle was solved for me and topped neatly onto the sashimi, I wouldn’t complain…).

Atlantic Salmon and Hamachi hodge-podge salad

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ELV note: As you may know, we write the “So Many Dinners” column for VEGAS magazine — a column that highlights noteworthy restaurants from around our valley. This month’s feature explores the origins of Vintner Grill, and since the ‘zine isn’t running it on its website, we at ELV thought you’d might like to peruse the gustatory gusto with which we gratifyingly gallivanted to (and gushed over) this galvanizing grill.

VINTNER GRILL

It’s safe to say that when Vintner Grill opened on December 6, 2006, no one associated with the project had the slightest idea it would become Las Vegas’ most prominent neighborhood restaurant. Who could have predicted that its sleek interior and swanky bar were destined to become the hotspot for everyone from serious oenophiles to socialites to celebrity chefs? These days, it all feels like a forgone conclusion, and five years on, you are as likely to run into Nicolas Cage as you are a power broker on the gorgeous outdoor patio. And if you think you see Andre Agassi and Stephie Graf , Bette Midler, or Steve Wynn sitting in a corner booth, you probably do.

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A Critique of Pure Rieslings

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If ever there was an example of why the Germans make the best Rieslings on the planet, these bottles are it.

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I like the best wine drunk at the cost of others. – Diogenes, the Cynic, 412?-323 B. C.

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The esteemed British wine writer Jancis Robinson defines the Riesling grape as quite unlike any other: “It is light in alcohol, refreshingly high in fruity acidity, has the ability to transmit the characterization of place through its extract and unique aroma, and, unlike Chardonnay, capable of aging for decades in the bottle.”

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On tasting wine: A good general rule is to state that the bouquet is better than the taste, and vice versa. – Stephen Potter, One-upsmanship (1952)

Excellent wine generates enthusiasm. And whatever you do with enthusiasm is generally successful. – Philippe de Rothschild

What is the definition of a good wine? It should start and end with a smile. – William Sokolin

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Our staff has been remiss in telling our loyal readers about two great deals on the Vegas food and wine scene.

Most insiders have known for years that Spago in the Forum Shops always has a few tables set aside for locals on even the busiest days. (more…)

At Old Homesteak Steak House last night

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Is it us, or do these prices strike you as insane?

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Dear ELV,

Relying principally on the recommendation of Eating Las Vegas 2012, I made a reservation for 3 at Twist for last Saturday.  On previous trips to LV, we had partaken of outstanding meals at RM Upstairs, Aureole, Fleur de Lys, and Carnevino.  On this trip we had already eaten at L’Atelier, and Jaleo (and later at Lotus of Siam), and we were excited to continue our adventure.

Our preference, when the chef is a better cook than I am an eater, is to ask that the chef serve good food, and I will get out of the way, without any limitations as to what I “like” or what anyone may be “allergic” to.  We had the 6 course tasting menu ($189) plus the wine pairings (an additional $110 ea.).  Granted, an enormous bill, but one I’m happy to pay for great food.

The food was okay, but that is not why I’m writing:  the wine ruined the meal.

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She's much more than a bartender

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Terrin can mix a mojito with the best of ‘em, but bring up the subject of a spicy Sangiovese Rosso or a racy Barbera d’Alba and her eyes light up like a saucy spumante.

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ELV note: Scroll across the video to the 34:31 minute mark (remembering the video time tracks in descending order) to witness us toasting the end of the year in style (and with a stylish Cremant de Alsace from Marche Bacchus) yesterday morning at 6:10 am on Wake Up with the Wagners. Gayola, Oogy WaWa and Happy New Year!