Raku’s 15-course meal plays out like a beautiful symphony

The questions I hear most as a restaurant critic are: How did you become one? How many times a week do you eat out? And how do you not weigh 300 pounds? A fourth question almost always follows closely: What’s the best restaurant off the Strip? For the record, the answers are: It’s a long story, 10 times a week, I have the metabolism of a hummingbird—and Aburiya Raku, best known to regulars simply as Raku.

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