STEAK ‘n SHAKE Ain’t Always Right In Sight

[nggallery id=979]

The pickles used to be on top of the burger, the chili used to be greasier (and slightly less spicy), the Chili Mac was bigger, its “secret sauce” was plain ketchup, and the steakburgers were steak-ier…

JE–SUS F*CK–ING CHRIST…couldn’t they get anything right?

But the milk shake, they got right. As good or better than any you’ll taste….anywhere. It is the ne plus ultra of soda fountain shakes and it puts every other fast food “shake” to shame…save maybe In-N-Out’s.

Is ELV being too picky? Well, yeah, and we’re kind of joking too. To be fair, founder Gus Belt and his widow (who was running the operation when ELV fell in love with it in the 6os), probably aren’t rolling over in their graves over what’s happened to their creation…unlike, say, the McDonald Bros. or Harlan Sanders.

In fact, the composition and taste of the dishes we remember so well is remarkably similar to the core products that launched this operation. Where it goes off the rails is in offering everything from salads to swiss and mushroom to…wait for it….chipotle/guacamole burgers!

WTF? Is any of this necessary? Do people walk into Steak ‘n Shake looking for a *&(#%$ chipotle burger?

Imagine, if you will, leaving Las Vegas to seek your fortune in say…New Hampshire. For years you’ve been addicted to In-N-Out burgers, love the short, high-quality menu, went there as a kid, and consumed them through high school. Suddenly, thirty years later, the bigwigs running INO decide to expand to Nashua (pop. 107,217!). You can’t wait. You regale family and friends with tales of fresh cut fries and “animal-style” double-doubles. Then, salivating with suspense, you run to the opening of New Hampshire’s first installment of this iconic institution and find a salad bar, bbq and bacon and (*&^#$% GUACAMOLE BURGERS on the menu!!!! How would you feel?

Yeah, that’s how ELV felt.

Betrayed.

Steak ‘n Shake was the In-N-Out of its day. Simple. Delicious. Perfect.

Stick with the basics —  the classics that made it a Midwestern icon — and you’ll get a reasonable facsimile of the tastes that made this place famous, and of the satisfaction ELV, and so many others, have secreted in their memories.

Order anything else and you’re on your own.

ELV’s lunch came to $12.78 + a $3 tip. In 1970, it would’ve cost him $1.50.

STEAK ‘n SHAKE

In the South Point Hotel and Casino

9777 Las Vegas Blvd. South

Las Vegas, NV 89183

702.796.7111 (no reservations, be prepared to stand in line for at least 15 minutes)

http://www.southpointcasino.com/dining/steak-n-shake.php

LOTUS OF SIAM (New York Version) Reviewed in New York Magazine

ELV note: This recent review of the New York Lotus of Siam just came across our desk (we’ve been a subscriber to New York magazine since the Clay Felker days of the late 7os), and we thought Las Vegans would like to see how one of the preëminent food writers of New Yawk  treats our treasured possession. We at ELV are glad those New Yawkers are finally catching up with us. Congrats to the Chutimas, and we’ll see you on Saturday night…in Las Vegas!

ShareThis

Lotus of Siam

So how does a cuisine beloved by chefs and assorted ragged outer-borough chowhounds turn into a full-fledged Manhattan restaurant boomlet more or less overnight? That was the question that the grateful, slightly befuddled Thai-food scholars at my table pondered as we sat down to dinner at Lotus of Siam, the second prominent Thai-style restaurant to open in Manhattan in the last two months. Continue reading “LOTUS OF SIAM (New York Version) Reviewed in New York Magazine”

Hot Diggity Dogs

[imagebrowser id=976]

Hot Dog Heaven, in Henderson, needs a new sign. Or at least a sign painter.

But what it doesn’t need to improve is its classic Chicago dog on a soft, squishy bun with hot peppers, pickles and radioactive relish.

Its bigger, thicker Polish cousin — with nicely grilled, thick onions — was pretty good too, but we found ourselves wolfing down the all-beef, Vienna skinnier dog first.

It was quite an al fresco lunch on quite an al fresco day in Henderson (72 degrees, in January?), and it made us think of Al Capone, Alvin Karpus, Allan Richman, Al Gore and Al DeRogatis, while this song played in our head. Go figure.

And GO BEARS!

Our two-dog lunch came to $7.17 and we left a $1.78 tip.

HOT DOG HEAVEN

(Somewhere in Henderson)