ELV note: our review of Central can be accessed in its original format by clicking here, or continue reading to bathe yourself in the soul-cleansing, appetite-exfoliating, succulence-sloughing prose for which we are known.
Whether or not you like Central (pronounced sen-TRAL) pretty much depends on whether you like your 24-hour-a-day casino restaurants to be ho-hum coffee shops or demand more from their food. Caesars Palace is gambling that this chef-driven spot right off its main lobby will satisfy the latter niche and raise the bar for dining and drinking for all three meals it serves. For two of those three, it seems to be succeeding. The third has a long way to go.