John Curtas is …

Critics

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Discovering Dining Delights in the Big D

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Confession may be good for the soul, but it’s probably not the best way to begin a restaurant review. But in the spirit of full disclosure, certain things must be acknowledged: I haven’t been a fan of Dallas, Texas since November 22, 1963. When you combine the horrific events of that day with an general dislike of Cowboys (I’m a Giants fan), big hair and bigger belt buckles, you could say this city on the Trinity River ain’t exactly my cup of chili. The fact that I haven’t been here in twenty-five years has kept these prejudices firmly entrenched, even though this city has now outgrown them by such a degree that thinking of Dallas as a cow town is like referring to Manhattan as a Dutch trading post.

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Josh Ozersky Dead at 47

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Anyone who ever shared a meal with Josh Ozersky knew three (over-sized) things were always on the menu: opinions, meat, and pitch-perfect impersonations of famous movie scenes. One night at Botero, a couple of years ago, he practically recited the entire screenplay of Godfather II to an audience of one (me) without missing a beat, a bite or a sip.

For a guy with a beef fixation, Josh was a big ham. Unabashedly so, and it made him all the more charming in a mad scientist/crazy Jew/food nerd/fan boy sort of way.

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Eater Vegas Crosses a Line (twice)

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In terms of contempt, Eater Vegas occupies a rung on our ladder of disrespect somewhere between climate change deniers and people who torture their pets in the name of entertainment.

You could even say the web site — driven exclusively by click bait, celebrity sightings and lame-ass, phoned-in infomercials for chefs and eateries — is beneath ridicule, since it never rises above the cut-and-paste-press-release form of food “journalism,” and overuses listicles (and attention-grabbing headlines like “awesome, “epic,” and “must read now”) so much that all adjectives are rendered meaningless.

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