Archive for the ‘Critics’

EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants – 44. MARCHE BACCHUS

October 15, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Critics, EATING LAS VEGAS - The 50 Essential Restaurants, Reviews, Wine 1 Comment →

44. MARCHE BACCHUS

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We at ELV are not sure if Marche Bacchus even qualifies for the coveted title of Best-Off-Strip-Restaurant-That’s-Not-In-Chinatown anymore, but we do know this: it’s still our favorite restaurant in Vegas, and the only one we ever want to go to to wile away a weekend afternoon, sipping spectacular wine (at the best prices in town) and engaging in our usual witty display of epicurean aphorisms and gastronomic bon mots.

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Bare Naked Tables by John Mariani

October 14, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Critics, John Mariani 4 Comments →

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St. John, London

 ELV note: The original of this article first appeared in John Mariani’s Virtual Gourmet. Click here to read it in its original format, or continue perusing below.

Anyone who has dined out with me knows that, unless I’m eating at the proverbial hole in the wall, I tend to groan over the lack of what was once the simplest amenity in a restaurant: a tablecloth.

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EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants – 43. MINT INDIAN BISTRO

October 13, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Critics, EATING LAS VEGAS - The 50 Essential Restaurants, Food, Max Jacobson, Reviews 1 Comment →

43. MINT INDIAN BISTRO

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Calvin Trillin once wrote that the average Italian restaurant gets more customers in a day than the average Indian restaurant gets in a month. ELV — the man, the myth, the yogurt-yogi-spiritual-advisor — used to agree with him. These days the tables have been turned (somewhat) and from the lines out the door at Mint Indian Bistro, it appears the Indians (dots not feathers) are giving the Italians a run for your money. ELV also thinks every vegetarian restaurant in Vegas is a joke. They should all close up shop immediately, and every vegetarian in town should start frequenting this place  instead.

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Welcome Back: Chefs to the Max

October 12, 2014 By: mitchell Category: Chefs, Critics, Events, Max Jacobson 2 Comments →

Max and Kerry Simon, chewing the fat

Max and Kerry Simon, chewing the fat

Special to Eating Las Vegas by Mitchell Wilburn:

The week before last marked a homecoming of great celebration for a missing face in the food community.  Max Jacobson is back in town, surely appreciative of the massive support he’s gotten from so many chefs, friends, and fans.  This most recent “Chefs to the Max” event took place at Carson Kitchen, the Kerry Simon spot downtown known for turning the tide in the Downtown food scene towards the hip.

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Finally, a Food Film Festival Featuring Fabulous Folks Festively Feasting Freely on Fiction

October 10, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Chefs, Critics, Events, Food, Liquor/Liqueur/Libations 3 Comments →

 

The only thing I love more than great food is a movie about great food.

This Friday night you are welcome to share my passion for the finest in food fantasia at the first, fabulous foray into his fount of feedbag film fare fodder.

Or something like that.

Finally….it’s all FREE….in the cozy little Black Box theatre, with the purchase of a cocktail at the exquisite Scullery bar.

See you tonight, fellow food film fans.

EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants – 40. B&B RISTORANTE

October 08, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Celebrity Chef Hell, Chefs, Critics, EATING LAS VEGAS - The 50 Essential Restaurants, Food, Max Jacobson, Reviews Comments Off

40. B&B RISTORANTE

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Mario Batali simplified Babbo’s menu when he and partner Joe Bastianich brought B&B to the Venetian six years ago. They slightly modified the format to best comport with the middlebrow tastes of the average Vegas conventioneer, rather than challenge the pasta hounds as they do every night  their flagship in Greenwich Village. The good news is the bold flavors that put that flagship on the map made it out here without losing much in the process, and this kitchen still manages to crank out Vegas’s most interesting pastas half a decade later.

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EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants – 36. CHADA THAI

September 26, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Chefs, Critics, EATING LAS VEGAS - The 50 Essential Restaurants, Food, Reviews, Spring Mountain Road, Wine Comments Off

36. CHADA THAI

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Chada Thai is the little restaurant that could. And by “could” we mean successfully and deliciously challenge Lotus of Siam for Thai food hegemony in our humble burg.

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EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants – 35. DISTRICT ONE

September 25, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Chefs, Critics, EATING LAS VEGAS - The 50 Essential Restaurants, Food, Reviews 2 Comments →

35. DISTRICT ONE

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Lobster pho photo by Sam Morris

ELV note: District One is so good (and keeps getting better), we thought it deserved the full, Eating Las Vegas review treatment a second time.

Eating Las Vegas has often wondered whether Vietnamese food in America is the ultimate revenge for that little dust-up we caused there in the 60s. They could never hope to outgun us, the thinking goes, so the expats figured they’d bore us to death with their cuisine.

What Chef/owner Khai Vu is doing at District One Kitchen & Bar is giving lie to that notion and standing Vietnamese food on its ear, and creating glamour in a cuisine that used to have all the sex appeal of Hilary Clinton.

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EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants – 34. RAO’S

September 24, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Critics, EATING LAS VEGAS - The 50 Essential Restaurants, Food, Max Jacobson, Reviews 2 Comments →

34. RAO’S

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ELV note: Rao’s hasn’t changed its menu since Ronald Reagan was President. So why is it “Essential?” Because, 1) the iconic, original one in NYC is impossible to get into; 2) the food is identical at both; 3) that food is about as righteous a rendition of Italian-American food as you’ll find in these here United States; and finally, because 4) ELV (the man, the myth, the deplore-r of all things low-class and Italian…as in “yo-Rocky!” Jersey Shore, low-class-Italian) has never had a bad meal or a bad bite in the joint. (And we’ve eaten here at least a dozen times since it opened.) That’s why the review below –  and Top 50 status — still stands.

“Red and dead” describes the vast majority of Italian-American restaurants with their cookie-cutter menus and uninspired cooking, but few Americans seem to demand or expect much from their chicken Marsala or pasta Bolognese.

Lucky for the rest of us, Rao’s is the exception to all this mendacious mediocrity. (more…)

EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants – 33. JALEO

September 24, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Chefs, Critics, EATING LAS VEGAS - The 50 Essential Restaurants, Max Jacobson, Reviews 3 Comments →

33. JALEO

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The best way to enjoy the wacky Spanish vibe of Jaleo is to dive in and hold on.

Like a traditional tapas restaurant, the joy comes from the blizzard of small plates that will appear at your table, each one seemingly more wonderful than the last. Like the nontraditional food of  José Andrés, you will be occasionally dazzled, occasionally disappointed, but never bored by what shows up at your table.

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