Archive for the ‘Critics’

EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants 21. ROSE.RABBIT.LIE.

September 01, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Chefs, Critics, EATING LAS VEGAS - The 50 Essential Restaurants, Food, Max Jacobson, Reviews 6 Comments →

ROSE.RABBIT.LIE.

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The first time I went to Rose.Rabbit.Lie it was late; I was drunk and liked the space, but hated the music. (But all the other drunks seemed to be having a whale of a time.) The second time, I was sober, liked the food, and still hated the music. The third time, I got as far away from the music as possible and learned to love it. So you might say the best way to appreciate your meal here is sober and in silence, and the best way to enjoy RRL is high as a Georgia pine.

The whole operation has more moving parts than a Zumanity masturbation fantasy. There’s a hostess desk. Then a juggler,  then an anteroom, then another hostess desk, and finally, secret doorways to your left and right — all of this before you even get to the restaurant.

Once you get inside (led by a by a very comely guide, and believe me, you need one), you’ll see chanteuses on pianos, tap dancers on bar tops, and acrobats shooting arrows with their feet. Whether you find any of this even mildly entertaining depends on your age. If you’re over fifty, think twice about going; if you’re any age over twenty-one, contemplate in advance how you feel about sharing your meal with the incessant din of entertainers trying really, really hard to entertain you.

It all feels like a lot of forced fun to Eating Las Vegas, but luckily, the food more than makes up for the atmosphere. Executive Chefs Wesley Holton and Ben Spungin have devised a menu that is by turns classical, bizarre, playful and slightly profane, in other words: a lot like the hotel’s marketing campaign for itself.

Start with either the caviar tacos ($15 each) or the caviar flatbread ($19 for the table) and you won’t be disappointed. ELV is a caviar snob of the first magnitude (going back to the early 80s), and he finds all of this farm raised stuff they throw at you today to be but a shadow of the oesetra, sevruga and beluga of his youth. But Holton knows how to take something insipid and make it sing — by letting these fish eggs play off the hamachi (in the tacos), or as an accent to eggs and bacon on the flatbread. (P.S. The flatbread is the better deal.)

From there, just hold on and dive in. Sharp flavors abound and Holton knows how to tweak your expectations, and dazzle your palate like a master pornographer. Whether it’s Caramelized Farm Carrots showing roasted veggies at their best or a collection of summer vegetables that would do Guy Savoy proud, almost everything coming out of this kitchen is a show-stopper. The Rock Shrimp and Corn Agnolotti explode with the two main flavors with every bite; ditto the crispy skin sea bass — as pure an expression of a properly-cooked fish fillet as we’ve ever had.

Everything on the menu seems to straddle the line between rib-sticking and highly refined. The Rabbit Fricassée with Vichy carrots, rose petals (get it?) and something called Sauce Zingara, could’ve come straight from a Gallic stewpot…by way of a bunch of French-maid, can-can strippers. Just as sexy are Holton’s Crispy Chicken and Duck Confit Pasta — the former like McNuggets from heaven; the latter so rich you’ll be tapping out after two bites (this is a good thing).

You can also order an entire Alaskan King Crab here ($1,200) or a Beef Wellington to serve 4-6 ($275) — each presented and served table-side just like the old days — but mere mortals (at least four of you) should stick with the chicken: in this case a Mary’s Free Range Chicken ($95) — roasted, poached and perfect — a main attraction that will have your phone cameras clicking and your eyes rolling back in your head.

The prices on some of the wines will do likewise (this is not a good thing), but there are bargains to be found, and the list is one of the more focused and impressive ones we’ve seen in Vegas — full of interesting bottles, not just name brands chosen by a liquor distributor. Both the cocktails and wines by the glass are superb.

Equally stunning are the panoply of desserts created by Chef Spungin, of which we partook of the Cherries Jubilee and the Chocolate Terrarium ($35). The cherries are flamed to nice effect table-side, but the old-fashioned presentation stops once they’re poured over satin-smooth rectangles of vanilla ice cream. It’s a grown up dessert, tasting of brandy, but one that will bring out the kid in you. Likewise, the two foot glass enclosure they parade to your table is a veritable garden of chocolate delights, of which the chocolate dirt(?) and ganache boulders(?) will have you laughing as you devour them. That’s entertainment!

This is one of, if not the most unique restaurants in all of Las Vegas. It matches the Cosmopolitan’s commercials to a tee and creates the kind of safe-yet-bizarre environment that is distinctly Las Vegas. If you’re idea of fun is watching lots of people doing this, have at it. But for yours truly, all the spectacle just takes attention away from the spectacular food. Reserve a table in The Library:

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…for some of the most interesting cooking going on in Vegas right now…in an atmosphere more befitting the sophistication of the cuisine, not the sauciness of the surroundings.

Max Jacobson (Max hasn’t been well enough to review RRL, but if he was, here’s what he would say): I first met Wes Holton when he was toiling in the shadow of the great Daniel Boulud at DB’s Wynn restaurant. Now, he’s doing his own cuisine, not simply polishing the reputation of a celebrity chef, and the results are generally excellent, if a bit all-over-the-map. Certain snobs among us are too easily impressed by a table-side-this or a flamed-that, and I leave them to oohing and aahing over the guéridon of their choice. For my money, the things to get here are the Mediterranean Lamb Pizza and the Florida Frog Leg, which, as excellent as they are, can’t compare with what I experienced one night in Megrelia, when a tribe of Abkhazians, speaking a dialect only I and seventeen elders from Samegrelo understand, feasted on kuchmachi, lobio, and pkhali spiked with spoonfuls of satsivi.

Recommended dishes: Gougères; Poached Asparagus; Caramelized Farm Carrots; Warm Bloomsdale Spinach Salad; Collection of Summer Vegetables; Rock Shrimp and Corn Agnolotti; Loup de Mer; Rabbit Fricassee; Crispy Chicken; Duck Confit Pasta; Florida Frog Leg; Mediterranean Pizza; Roasted Foie Gras; Caviar Tacos; Caviar Flatbread; Mary’s Free Range Chicken; Foie Gras Macaroons; Cherries Jubilee; Bananas Foster; Chocolate Terrarium.

ROSE.RABBIT.LIE.

The Cosmopolitan

877.667.0585

Breakfast, Lunch and Two Dinners at SLS

August 27, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Chefs, Critics, Food, Openings, Reviews 3 Comments →

SLS logo

“I’m sorry, but we are no longer taking requests for media day,” the e-mail said.

“Wait. What?” we thought to ourselves. “You won’t give a little early access to Eating Las Vegas so we can get some first photos of your restaurants? DON’T YOU KNOW WHO I AM?”

The fact is, the p.r. hacks and flacks running these things usually don’t. Which bothers us not at all.

Because the last thing you want when you go restaurant exploring in a shiny new Vegas hotel is to be followed around by some clueless bimbo.

So with that e-mail tucked into our pocket, we went anyway. Strolled in like we owned the joint, six hours before the official opening, to patrol the premises alone, without being herded like cattle with the various free-’zine freeloaders on property.

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EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants – 20. GIADA

August 26, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Chefs, Critics, EATING LAS VEGAS - The 50 Essential Restaurants, Max Jacobson, Reviews 3 Comments →

20. GIADA

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Far be it for a late-middle-aged white guy to explain (or fathom) why Giada Di Laurentiis seems to be the most popular chef in the history of Las Vegas, but she is and there’s no denying that her restaurant has created another rumble in our gastronomic jungle…and that the whole food world has felt the shudder.

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EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants – 19. DB BRASSERIE

August 25, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Chefs, Critics, EATING LAS VEGAS - The 50 Essential Restaurants, Max Jacobson, Reviews 8 Comments →

19. DB BRASSERIE

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No one was happier than yours truly when Daniel Boulud decided to return to Las Vegas — after a four year hiatus. And return he has, with a top toque in the kitchen, and you won’t find better, unfussy French food in town right now.

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EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants – 18. LE CIRQUE

August 24, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Chefs, Critics, EATING LAS VEGAS - The 50 Essential Restaurants, Reviews 2 Comments →

LE CIRQUE

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Le Cirque is so timeless, so flawless, so confident in what it does, any other year it would most certainly be in the top ten restaurants of Las Vegas. The only reason it is not this year is because 1) the Bellagio effectively divorced itself from the Maccioni family last year, and 2) its very talented young executive chef, Paul Lee, recently left the operation to pursue greener pastures in Los Angeles.

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Bon Appetit Craps Out; Mariani Makes His Point

August 21, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Critics, John Mariani, Rant, Zines 8 Comments →

ELV note: We temporarily interrupt our regularly scheduled programming (i.e., our march through the 50 Essential Restaurants of Las Vegas) to bring you a word (actually 2,193 of them) about a most disturbing development in the food media world.

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Two mornings ago, the editor of Bon Appetit magazine, and the restaurant editor of the magazine, appeared on the CBS Morning News to announce Bon App’s “Best New Restaurants of 2014.”

In introducing the segment, they listed their general criteria for determining which restos made the overall list, and how they specifically determined their Top 10 eateries on the list.

Those criteria were, in order:

1) Good Vibe

2) Good Music

3) Good Lighting

4) Good Food

To say that Eating Las Vegas was appalled is an understatement. And we weren’t the only ones.

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EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants – 16. CHINA MAMA

August 19, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Critics, EATING LAS VEGAS - The 50 Essential Restaurants, Food, Reviews, Spring Mountain Road Comments Off

16. CHINA MAMA

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China MaMa has settled comfortably into its skin of being our best Chinese restaurant, but that doesn’t prevent it from being the constant target of slurs and rumors along the lines of: “It’s not as good as it once was” or “No one goes there anymore, it’s too crowded.”

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EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants – 15. ALLEGRO

August 18, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Chefs, Critics, EATING LAS VEGAS - The 50 Essential Restaurants, Food, Reviews 1 Comment →

15. ALLEGRO

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‘Tis a pity what’s happened to upscale, authentic Italian food in our humble burg of late.

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EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants – 14. SAGE

August 12, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Critics, EATING LAS VEGAS - The 50 Essential Restaurants, Food, Reviews 1 Comment →

14. SAGE

I’d like Sage a whole lot more if it weren’t so hideously expensive. Everything on the main dish menu — meats, fishes and pastas….yes, pastas — tops the forty dollar mark, which means you’ll top a buck fifty a head here without breaking a sweat.

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EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants – 13. JULIAN SERRANO

August 11, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Chefs, Critics, EATING LAS VEGAS - The 50 Essential Restaurants, Food, Reviews Comments Off

13. JULIAN SERRANO



Five years ago, Las Vegas went from having no good tapas in town to having two of the best Spanish restaurants in the country. This one just keeps getting better and better.

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