Archive for the ‘Critics’

The 50 Essential Restaurants – Number One

July 28, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Chefs, Critics, EATING LAS VEGAS - The 50 Essential Restaurants, Food, Reviews No Comments →

INTRODUCTION

Here it is food fans: The unbridled, unvarnished, unimpeachable list of the top 50 restaurants in Las Vegas. The essentials. In order of excellence. Unfettered by Max Jacobson’s loathing of all things Japanese, or Al Mancini’s insistence that a hamburger deserves the same respect as haute cuisine.

Yes, we have gone from a oligarchy to autocracy, but we at ELV prefer to think about it as a benign dictatorship — one that applauds substance, talent, and hard work over hype.

As owners of the book EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants will note, much of the text is taken from our portion of the book. But we have made cuts and edits where appropriate (e.g. Valentino has closed and Marche Bacchus lost its chef and the food there no longer warrants top ten status), and will roll out our current top 10, one at a time, over the next week or so.

THE TOP 10

1) JOËL ROBUCHON
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I hate Joël Robuchon and his dastardly henchmen. Especially Claude Le Tohic and Steve Benjamin – I really hate those guys. They are evil wicked men who deserve to die, smothered in a glistening vat of torchon de foie gras of their own making.*

Night after night, they lay in wait. Beseeching me. Haunting my thoughts, tempting every fiber of my body. It starts with the Bordier butter. Then they hook me with the incomparable bread basket. “The first one’s free,” is what they whisper. From that point on, all resistance is futile. How can truffled langoustine taste any more of either? What devil worshipper concocted beef cheeks braised with red miso in cocotte?

Dishes like risotto of soybean sprouts or roasted duck and seared foie gras with cherries-and-kumquat compote lead me to the flame like a helpless hungry moth. This food is so intense and so faultless, it will destroy your capacity to appreciate anything less.

Someone needs to do something about how fat I am, and getting rid of this place would be a good place to start.

Favorite Dishes: Roasted Farm Chicken With Château Chalon Cooked In Cocotte; Delicate Green-Pea Cream With Fresh Mint And Bacon; Chocolate Ganache Topped With Carrot Coulis And Almond Ice Cream; Caramel Crème And Toasted Waffles Mixed With Fresh Berries And Swirled Vanilla Blackberry Ice Cream. Basically the whole friggin’ menu.

JOËL ROBUCHON

In the MGM Grand Hotel and Casino

702.891.7358

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* Uh…hold on…wait a minute….that’s the way I want to die.

This Just In: EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants to go On-Line

July 24, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Critics, Reviews, Travel 2 Comments →

  • Order the Eating Las Vegas Book Here

Attention all foodies and Las Vegas food fans. What remains of EATING LAS VEGAS - The 50 Essential Restaurants will soon be available on this Web site.

By that we mean the portions written by yours truly will soon become an integral part of www.eatinglv.com, and will be available for your delectation and commentation(?), as well as being continually updated by ELV to provide readers, locals and tourists with the most current information and opinion available on the top restaurants in town.

Our staff will soon be posting the entire text of our top 50 picks from the 2013 edition, and over the next few months we will endeavor to revise and update the list, restaurant by restaurant.

The first thing we’ll do, however, is publish a new list of our 50 Essential Restaurants — as soon as we’ve had the opportunity to glean through and edit the old one.

And finally, before you ask: Al Mancini had no interest in doing another book (so we’ll leave him to pursuits more befitting a man of his talents), and Max Jacobson continues on his slow road of recovery from his terrible accident. That’s why the book will continue with yours truly at the helm for the time being.

Steven A. Shaw “The Fat Guy” Dies at 45

April 09, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Critics, Wake 6 Comments →

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I’m not good at obituaries. Never really written one. Didn’t even know Steven A. Shaw that well. But his premature death yesterday (of a heart attack while still in his 40s) calls for some recognition of one of the original internet “foodies,” a James Beard Award winning author, and one hell of a dining companion.

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Eating Las Vegas to Merge With Yelp

April 01, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Critics, Events 8 Comments →

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If you can’t beat ‘em join ‘em.

Yep, food fans, it’s true. After a year of teeth-gnashing, conference calls and caterwauling, Anthony Curtis, Al Mancini and ELV issued a joint press release yesterday announcing that EATING LAS VEGASThe 50 Essential Restaurants would be sold to Yelp in order to facilitate the publishing of a new 2015 edition and expand the brand.

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PIZZA AGONISTES by John Mariani

March 31, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Critics, Food, Zines 7 Comments →

ELV note: This article is from the current edition of John Mariani’s Virtual Gourmet and originally appeared on Esquire.com. We re-publish it here on the slim chance that a few of our loyal readers do not already subscribe to Mariani’s essential Web publication. Read away in either format and prepare to get hungry.

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It’s been a bad month for bad pizza. First, Sbarro announced the closing of 155 of its 400 U.S. stores, then declared bankruptcy. Again.  Then, in one of the few conservative judicial decisions I actually applaud, Justice Antonin Scalia, born in Trenton, NJ, declared that Chicago-style deep-dish pizza “shouldn’t be called pizza. It’s very tasty, but it’s not pizza.”

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Letter of the Century – How Does Taste Evolve?

March 26, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Critics, Food For Thought, Letter of the Week 4 Comments →

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Dear Eating Las Vegas,

You recently wrote a caption on a photo you posted on Facebook, “I think I could eat ‘modern Japanese’ food every day of my life and not get bored.

It made me wonder how you, as a food critic who’s refined his palate over the course of many years, came to appreciate a cuisine like this which, admittedly, is not a commonplace offering in most of America?

At what point does taste get refined to appreciate the subtleties of a cuisine like Modern Japanese, or even to start exploring? Any art form (film, music, art, etc.) has levels of refinement, as the curious audience member ventures off to more significant, and more difficult to interpret, levels of appreciation. How does it happen with food?

Inquisitively yours,

Curious George

ELV responds:

The best way we can answer the question(s) is to give you a brief tour of what ELV calls: The Evolution of a Critic.

Our good friend, author, food writer, Esquire magazine food critic and noted chronicler of the history of American food and drink,  John Mariani says there are 3 kinds of food critics: “The slobs, the snobs and the oh goodie goodies.”

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Accosting the Critic 101

February 26, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Chefs, Critics 9 Comments →

So we’re at a restaurant for lunch yesterday.

It wasn’t a location of our choosing, but at the behest of a regular lunchtime companion.

The name of the place isn’t important, but let’s just say we spent plenty of time and typing last year telling people how mediocre (or worse) it is.

We did not, however, ever call it “The Worst Restaurant In Town.” (The importance of this will be made clear below.)

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“Crush” – Dave Matthews Band: The Restaurant

February 03, 2014 By: mitchell Category: Chefs, Critics, Food, Openings, Reviews 5 Comments →

Ah, the dulcet tones, the violin solo, the sweet as hell music video of some Utopian jazz club.  I was very excited to see the new joint in the MGM (taking over the Nob Hill spot) is named after my favorite song from one of my favorite bands, Dave Matthews Band (I call them DMB).  ”Crush” is a totally great song with good music in it, but will this tapas/wine bar be worth the square footage?

It’s a venture of Michael and Jenna Morton (of La Cave, La Comida, and the Morton Steakhouse Group [but only via familiar relation, not business]), but an interesting one.  The space itself is unusually cozy.  I was thinking it would be all bistro seats and techno music.  Yes friends, I am glad to tell you there is a semi-casual restaurant that isn’t pumping out Teen Disney or geriatric-core rock, but rather simple and soft jazz piano covers.

The interior here is cool, but cool in that way where you make a normal space and put a ton of vintage laboratory equipment in it to make it “hip”.  Like all darkened tapas/wine bars, it has already started to attract every lady over 30, probably by way of some kind of pheromone or emitting an extremely low frequency.

The menu, in a very uncharacteristic move for such concepts, is actually NOT a giant unfocused mess!  Twenty-three items are tapas (seven of which are pizzas, just thin enough to skirt the entree category), eight are “full-size” dishes.  More on the suspicious quotations around that term later in the article.

Some items, like the hamachi or the kale salad, are a bit phoned-in or could have benefited from some simple tweaks or additions.  These sour notes only punctuate an otherwise very unique menu.  The executive chef, William DeMarco, has taken the next logical step from his La Cave style with pizzas that leave his own flat breads in the dust.  The Thai coconut curry shrimp pizza, with asparagus and smoked bacon, is complexly spiced and surprisingly creative.

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ELV Note

January 21, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Critics 3 Comments →

Despite what the marketers and free magazines are telling you, this is a very slack time in the Las Vegas restaurant world.

Until the SLS Hotel opens later in the year, or someone decides to open something other than a taco stand or pizza restaurant downtown, there is precious little ground to cover that we haven’t written about extensively over the past six years — to say nothing of what we’ve done over the past nineteen.

Accordingly, we’ll be posting a weekly article (usually around mid-week) on this site about one of our recent meals, but we’ll leave the fawning, fatuous coverage of Bobby Flay’s upcoming burger joint, and other sundry non-events to those who are trying to sell advertising.

As our loyal readers know, the only thing ELV is selling is your guide to better taste.

No Foodie Christmas Should Be Without It

December 24, 2013 By: John Curtas Category: Critics, Food Comments Off

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Looking for a last minute X-mas gift for the foodie in your life?

Then we at ELV suggest you hightail it to Sur La Table or Barnes and Noble to pick up a copy of John Mariani’s updated edition of The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink.

It’s been fourteen years since Mariani first published this seminal work, and no one can doubt there’s been a sea change in the way the world looks at food. Mariani puts it all in perspective with expanded entries on everything from the DIY movement to “molecular cuisine” – which Mariani accurately traces back to an Italian nut job named Filippo Marinetti: a cookbook author, poet and political rabble rouser who advocated eating things like pineapple and sardines while inhaling spritzes of cologne and gazing upon sculpted food to the noise of airplane engines….in 1932! Take that Grant Achatz!

The book is chock full of gems like that, and you’ll learn more about food and food history (and mind-blowing trivia*) in an hour of gazing at its pages than you will in a year of reading some blowhard food blog.

Despite what many think, the pleasures of flipping through pages as interesting as this will never go out of style.

The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink should be an essential part of every foodie’s library. For food professionals it is mandatory; for the casual food or restaurant reader, it will make you smarter and increase your food IQ,  in all sorts of delicious ways.

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* Who knew that a freed slave named Emmanuel “Manna” Bernoon opened an oyster and ale house in Providence, Rhode Island in 1736….90 years before the Union Oyster House opened its doors in Boston?