Last Night at BOULUD BRASSERIE

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…and the crumbs…touched my palate….(and) a shudder ran through my whole body, as I stopped, intent upon the extraordinary changes that were taking place….at once the vicissitudes of life had become indifferent to me…

— Remembrance of Things Past, Vol. 1: Swann’s Way

Proust got it right; sometimes the taste or smell of food can create an out of body experience.

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In the MOOD

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If you’ve never been to the Artisan Hotel, it is a hoot and a half. Designed…and we mean designed as a soft-porn, Gothic, baroque, roccoco hideaway, it single-handedly defines the term “overdecorated,” but somehow remains disarmingly charming regardless.

Throughout its checkered career, it has had a restaurant of dubious repute that has battled everything from musty-smelling putrefaction to health code violations to giving food poisoning to more than one friend of ELV.

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