TABLE 10 – Reviewed in Las Vegas Weekly

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The last time I paid serious attention to an Emeril Lagasse restaurant, Congress was asking Monica Lewinsky to explain the stains on her dress. Polite company should not be forced to discuss such things, so I’ve tried to avoid both subjects since the turn of the century. It’s not that I don’t like Emeril—he’s a charming, generous and funny guy—but the mass appeal of his ingredient-heavy, caloric, fatty, often charmless food is lost on yours truly. When he opened Table 10 in the Palazzo in 2008, two meals there convinced me his food (as it appears outside of New Orleans) was headed straight to Applebee’s land. Then, a month ago, an email arrived from chef Sean Roe that intrigued me …

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Eat This Now – Spring White Asparagus at TABLE 10

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…and by now we mean NOW! Because, as you may know, the Spring growing season for white asparagus is extremely short, and Executive Chef Sean Roe tells us these will only be around for a few weeks.

He combines his with wild greens harvested by a native American forager in Washington State, and lightly dresses the whole enchilada with a nutty, hazelnut vinaigrette — making this seasonal concoction just about the lightest, freshest, springiest way to (edibly) spring into Spring we know of.

It costs $14.

Just thought you’d like to know.

TABLE 10

In the Palazzo Hotel and Casino

3327 Las Vegas Blvd. South

Las Vegas, NV 89109

702.607.6363

http://www.palazzo.com/table10.aspx

Eat This Now – Lunch at COUNTRY CLUB GRILL

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To where does one repair for lunch after drinking extremely rare, vintage champagnes all morning? Why, to a table for one at the very same Country Club Grill where he started quaffing the over-the-top wines at 10:00 am, of course!

There, Chef Carlos Guia soothed our buzz with a Creole-crusted slices of yellowfin tuna with shaved vegetables over a sesame-ginger emulsion, followed by one of Vegas’ most definitive crab cakes served with a sauce ravigote (the name means “invigorate”), that is sort of like a remoulade with more serious intentions. Accompanying everything was what remains one of Vegas’ best bread baskets. Chefs may come and go at the Wynn/Encore, but the in-house bakery here still puts out some mighty toothsome carbohydrates.

FYI: Guia is one of the coordinating chefs of this years TASTE OF THE NATION event being held next Thursday at the Rain Nightclub in the Palms Casino Resort. Tickets are $75, and the lineup of restaurants — from American Fish to Wazuzu — is plenty impressive and a mighty tasty way to fill your belly and assuage your conscience, while you’re helping fight the hunger that continues to grip our nation.

“No Kid Hungry” is TOTN’s slogan, and by buying a ticket, you’ll be doing your small part to make sure some child in Nevada has enough to eat.

Be there or be Three Square!

COUNTRY CLUB GRILL

At the Wynn Hotel and Casino

3131 Las Vegas Blvd. South

Las Vegas, NV 89109

702.770.3317

www.wynnlasvegas.com