Author: John Curtas

CENTRAL Reviewed in Las Vegas Weekly

ELV note: our review of Central can be accessed in its original format by clicking here, or continue reading to bathe yourself in the soul-cleansing, appetite-exfoliating, succulence-sloughing prose for which we are known.

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Whether or not you like Central (pronounced sen-TRAL) pretty much depends on whether you like your 24-hour-a-day casino restaurants to be ho-hum coffee shops or demand more from their food. Caesars Palace is gambling that this chef-driven spot right off its main lobby will satisfy the latter niche and raise the bar for dining and drinking for all three meals it serves. For two of those three, it seems to be succeeding. The third has a long way to go.

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The List

Being a restaurant critic is like being a horse put out to stud; it sounds like a good idea until you have to do it on command all the time. – Colman Andrews

Being a restaurant critic is like being a porn star; most schmucks think they would like it and could do it, but wouldn’t and can’t. – ELV

Here’s where we’ve eaten in the past two weeks:

Central (four times)

Giuseppe’s

J & J Szechuan

Flame Kabob

The Barrymore

Carnevino

P. J. Clarke’s

Yellowtail

Sirio

Island Sushi (twice)

Marche Bacchus

Sushi Fever

D.O.C.G.

Milos

Bouchon

Yasou!

Comme Ça

Mon Ami Gabi