ELV Note

Despite what the marketers and free magazines are telling you, this is a very slack time in the Las Vegas restaurant world.

Until the SLS Hotel opens later in the year, or someone decides to open something other than a taco stand or pizza restaurant downtown, there is precious little ground to cover that we haven’t written about extensively over the past six years — to say nothing of what we’ve done over the past nineteen.

Accordingly, we’ll be posting a weekly article (usually around mid-week) on this site about one of our recent meals, but we’ll leave the fawning, fatuous coverage of Bobby Flay’s upcoming burger joint, and other sundry non-events to those who are trying to sell advertising.

As our loyal readers know, the only thing ELV is selling is your guide to better taste.

Tacos on a Different Level

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We’ve taken our time with Desnudo Tacos.

We didn’t rush to go there when it opened back in early December, and have taken our good sweet time in taking the measure of the place.

Maybe it was our inherent anti-taco temperament, cynical street food snobbishness and predisposition to dislike endless south of the border permutations that made us more circumspect. It was those, of course, combined with our (usual) quick draw readiness to dismiss yet another trite, hipster, downmarket “joint” that promises more than it delivers.

So you might say we were lying in wait for it. Ready with sharpened keyboard(?)  to vivisect everything from the recipes to the lighting fixtures.

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