The slow, steady decline of a once noble restaurant is hardly something we take pleasure in witnessing. But this week’s story in CityLife about the whys and wherefores of Pamplemousse’s recent tribulations (and its refusal to keep up with the times) is a fascinating study in obliviousness on the part of the owner (who refused to be interviewed), a clueless manager/maitre ‘d, and a poor chef soldiering on against all odds, cooking food that was dated twenty years ago.
We are privy to more information about this sorry state of affairs than we can divulge (being as we’re a lawyer-at-law at all that jazz), but suffice it to say that, like Andre Rochat before him, owner Georges La Forge is content to live in a fantasy world of his own creation — in which it’s always 1980 — and Englebert, Tom and Debbie are beating a path to his door.
As long as these guys can hang on, and squeeze every last nickel out of a bought and paid for building, they care little about actually selling something people might want to buy. And like fans watching the lights slowly dim on an aging athlete or fading movie star, we wish someone would tell them it’s time to give up the ghost while they (and their business) still have a reputation worth preserving.
Not that I’m trying to be a fly in the ointment, or Le Advocat Diable…but one supposes a business owner has a right to do as he pleases, as long as he doesn’t invite a criminal element, etc…and no one’s claiming the neighborhood around Grapefruit is as bad as the one around Luv-Its (only a few blocks away). However, I do find myself wondering…at what point in the arc does musty and out-of-date become venerated and classic? As I’m sure you know, we’re all witnessing the revival of much 50s-style cooking…how many months until we’re raving about jello molds and casseroles and vilifying anything Kobe?
I have never dined at Le Pamplemousse, but always been curious. Loved the story. I wonder if it will actually bring it renewed interest (and thus unintended endorsement).
“we’re all witnessing the revival of much 50s-style cooking”
What?
Where?
No way!
Renewed interest in 50’s style design yes, cooking – I hope not.
Wow, Mr. ELV. I’m surprised you didn’t make a reference to “Sunset Boulevard” here. The first thing that came into my mind in CityLife’s Pamplemousse story was the legendary ending when Norma Desmond (played by real life fading silent movie star Gloria Swanson), just after shooting her screenwriter, emerges to greet the press and police waiting at the bottom of the grand staircase.
“I’m ready for my close-up, Mr. DeMille.”
Now I can’t get that out of my head as I think of Pamplemousse on Sahara. They need to catch up with the times or risk going the way of Norma Desmond.
Remember when I passed the bar in 1984….where we had our celebration…nice memories…..
My wife and I live in Phoenix but are Vegas veterans, visiting several times per year. For our anniversary in June, we decided to go off-Strip and found good reviews on Pamplemousse. It was an absolutely delightful experience from the moment we walked in and were seated in the “Debbie Reynolds” booth to when we rolled out into the parking lot 2.5 hours later, stuffed full of excellent wine, superbly prepared cuisine and entertainment in the form of stories and banter from Maitre D’ Keefer. A welcome blast-from-the-past, Pamplemousse was $300 well-spent and we’ll be back again soon!
There are too many wannabe restaurateurs out there already. They are mixing and remixing foods as if they were sound bites. Some of it is beautiful music. Much of it is not. They come and go like the dreams of Las Vegas.
Thank goodness for restaurants like Pamplemousse!
I am so fortunate to desire a traditional meal and to be able to get one.
Thank you Mr. La Forge for not whoring yourself to the whims of the masses.
Mr Curtas your article is the equivalent of kicking a Doyen crossing the street.
Yes you are doing your job. Poorly.