Is the pizza at Due Forni (do-AY FOR-nee) as good as Settebello’s? It depends.
Would it be blasphemous to bleat that D.O.C.G. might be as good or better than Scarpetta, its sister restaurant next door? It’s certainly less formal, noisier, and simpler in focus and form. The menu breaks down into short sections — from salumeria to secondi (main) courses — and none of them overwhelm you with anything other than how friggin’ good everything tastes.
Take a tiny space, formerly occupied by a failed “continental” restaurant, add an outdoor patio and some nice furnishings, spice it up with a wine bar, mix in some high falutin’ Thai food, and whaddya got? Nittaya’s Secret Kitchen.