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We’ve never asked Rick Moonen what the secret is to his taramasalata. In fact, there isn’t any big secret to the fish roe dip — you make it by blending grey mullet (or carp or cod) roe with stale, soaked bread, lemon juice, garlic, onion and oil — but that doesn’t explain how or why his tastes better than any other one we’ve ever had. But it just does. There’s something about the silky/coarse/creamy consistency, with just a hint of fishiness and a definite tang, that separates this Olympian offering from plebian, plagiaristic provisions. Regardless of pedigree, his version pummels all others, and is worth a special trip.

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