There is nothing either good or bad, only thinking makes it so. – W. Shakespeare, Hamlet, Act 2, Scene 2

Calling the entrance to ALEX in the Wynn dramatic is like calling Hamlet a family drama. It is one of the most stunning restaurant entrances you will ever see, and the walk down the sweeping, curved staircase puts one in mind of making an announced entrance into the first class dining salon on a grand ocean liner of days gone by. All that’s missing are the flowing gowns and tuxedos. Sadly, these days you’re more likely to see golf shirts and mini-skirts (that rarely flatter the people who wear them).

That creeping California casualness does injustice to Alessandro “Alex” Stratta’s food (and Paolo Barbieri’s wines), but thankfully, both are so good — the play’s the thing* after all — you won’t be looking at all that sartorial blight once the food starts showing up.

Continue reading “ALEX – A Restaurant of Shakespearean Proportions”