BESO-me Mucho, Eva

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It’s no secret Beso has had a few problems over the past year. Owner/actress/former NBA fan Eva Longoria has done what she can to right the ship, even going so far as to do a super-glam photo shoot on the premises, but we at ELV think the better course would be to let Chef Matt Piekarski keep doing his thing in the kitchen, in hopes the food will soon match the (former, now faded) buzz of the place.

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Oysters, Oysters, Oysters!

Never eat oysters in any month without a paycheck in it. – P.J. O’Rourke

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It’s something of a tradition around the ELV household to chow down on ersters in our humble burg before the hot weather hits.

Usually we hit Bouchon and/or RM Seafood for a dozen or two, washed down with some of that there Fussy-Pussy wine, and then forget our shellfish hankerins until October rolls around. (Despite what oysters producers, restaurants, and more than a few writers tell you, oysters are not as sweet or firm in the summer months, because that’s when they breed — becoming tired, flabby and watery in the process — sorta like humans.)

This year we decided to break with tradition and check out the varieties at Morels Steakhouse — long known for its French-i-fied steaks, erotic murals: [imagebrowser id=1122]

….cheese platters and freshly displayed bivalve mollusks.

We knew they’d be good, but we didn’t expect them to be this good. The Hama Hamas and Kumamotos tasted like they just lept off a boat…and the flatter, bigger Malpeques had just that light, clean essence they are known for.

If those weren’t good enough, the parsley-olive oil dip here (along with the yeasty, crusty bread), is worth a special trip all by itself.

Morels seems to be a good joint in the process of trying to make itself a great one. Now that the Wynn/Encore seems to be abandoning its haute gourmand mission, it may soon become our first steak stop along Las Vegas Blvd. South. (and yet another in Venetian/Palazzo’s Murderer’s Row of Steakhouses)

MORELS FRENCH STEAKHOUSE

In The Palazzo Hotel and Casino

3325 Las Vegas Blvd. South

Las Vegas, NV 89109

702.607.6333

http://www.palazzo.com/morels.aspx