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Las Vegas is full of great beef these days.
In fact, next to New York we probably have the greatest collection of steakhouses in the country.
R.I.P. Ruth’s Chris: 1989-2011
Even when it was enjoying its greatest success throughout the ’90s and early aughts, Ruth’s Chris (and it’s owner Marcel Taylor) never received enough recognition for being the gastronomic game-changer in bringing national attention to Las Vegas’ restaurant scene. Spago always gets credit for shaking the gourmet ground under us when it opened in late 1992—and thereby starting the culinary tsunami that brought so many high-end eateries to our desert shores—but the little-known fact is, the rumblings really started three years earlier, when Taylor, then a dealer at Caesars, convinced Ruth Fertel (founding owner of Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse and one of his regular big players) to let him have a Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse franchise on Paradise Road.
ELV note: The following article appears in this month’s issue of VEGAS magazine. Click here to read it in its original format, or continue reading below…and try not to start salivating for a superior steak.
How Nicole Brisson Handles the Manliest Meat in the World
When you ask to see the chef in most steakhouses, a big, brawny guy appears looking like he knows his way around a side of beef. Not so at Mario Batali’s Carnevino. Instead, a pint-size female walks out looking no bigger than a filet mignon. Nicole Brisson is 5-foot-2 and has talents and responsibilities that make her unique in the world of porterhouses and prime. As executive chef, she supervises the cooking and the (almost all male) staff of 120 employees at what may be the best steakhouse in America—serving what are certainly the oldest aged steaks anywhere, along with authentic eats given the weighty Batali/Bastianich seal of approval. It doesn’t get more exalted than that in the steak or Italian food world.