Holiday Dining My Way

ELV note: We’ve been as busy as a beaver this fall — writing for a various ‘zines and trying to finish the copy for the fourth edition of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants. Oh yes, and we also took a two-week trip to Germany and Alsace (that we’ll be writing about as soon as the book gets done), and we got engaged to be married AND we’ve been trying to keep up with our day job — saving the taxpayers’ money at the City of Las Vegas. As a result, our nights have been shorter and our ELV posts have been fewer. So, with all that in mind, we thought this would be a good time to post our recently published article in VEGAS magazine, highlighting our ideas for where to best have a bacchanalian blowout over the holidays. Read on, happy holidays, and we’ll resume more regular postings once all this hubbub subsides.

Upscale Egg Salad at Le Cirque Las Vegas(Le Cirque puts its spin on egg salad)

Dining in Las Vegas is extravagant any time of year, but during the holidays, our temples of gastronomic delight really pull out all the stops—and stoppers.

In Las Vegas, creating a holiday environment all year-round is our specialty. But during our winter holidays (when, granted, you might have to look for snow in the Bellagio Conservatory rather than outside), the city’s best restaurants stage the ultimate in over-the-top dining—featuring très luxe products from around the globe brought in to satisfy gourmands looking to dress up, dine out, and drink it all in, the Vegas way.

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As the French invented both the modern restaurant and Champagne, you can be assured a holiday meal at Joël Robuchon (MGM Grand, 702-891-7925) will be second to none. James Beard Award–winning Executive Chef Claude Le-Tohic (pictured above with the man himself) is a truffle snob of the best kind, and by Christmas Day, his menu is usually festooned with the finest black truffles. “After about mid-December, the white truffles start declining in quality,” he explains. “That’s when we start using truffes noires, which are much better when cooked. Many of our customers request them over the holidays.” Thus can you find these gorgeous fungi adorning everything from a mousseline served with a semi-soft boiled egg with Comté cheese to a white onion tart with smoked bacon that proves the rest of the world has nothing on the French when it comes to crafting an umami bomb.

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EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants – Number Two

2. RESTAURANT GUY SAVOY
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ELV note: The only reason Joël Robuchon is Number One on our Top 50 list and Guy Savoy Number two is because the food is slightly more over-the-top at JR. Basically though, on any given night, it’s a toss-up. Around the ELV manse, we like to say that JR is more like a temple of fine dining, while GS is more of a cathedral. (And if you can make out a difference between the two, you’re smarter than we are.)

In an Atlantic Monthly article entitled “Six Rules for Dining Out,” economist Tyler Cowen counseled avoiding any restaurant where “groups of people (especially beautiful women) are laughing loudly and having a good time.” Such an atmosphere indicates people are there for anything but the food.

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The Single Greatest Bite of Food We Had in 2013

ELV note: In honor of Cathy’s comment in the previous post, our staff thought it best if we tidy up our year-end business (and start the New Year out right) by making good on our promise to highlight The Single Greatest Bite of Food We Had in 2013. And the beeg weiner is…..

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Yes, these crispy, crunchy, chewy, bittersweet, almost burnt buttons of shellacked shell without, custard-y goodness within, are the ne plus ultra of French confections and no one does them better than Restaurant Guy Savoy at Caesars Palace.

We fell in love with canelés de Bordeaux over ten years ago when we stumbled upon a pastry shop on the Right Bank of Paris (France, not Tennessee) that specialized in them. Now, anytime we see them we swoon with delight. It’s a textural thing that makes them so special — a caramelized (almost burnt) exterior giving way to an unctuous, vanilla custard center — all in the span of a tiny cake-like object about half the size of the human thumb.  Such contrast of tastes and textures in so small a package is a miracle of pastry making that only the French have mastered.

We were honored to be able to give the induction speech of Mon. Guy Savoy into the American Gaming Hall of Fame this past November, and we celebrated with nibbling on these (and more than a few of Guy’s and Mathieu Chartron’s autumnal concoctions) later that evening.

If there’s a better way to spend an eating and drinking night in Las Vegas, we can’t think of it.

And if there’s a better bite of food on the planet….we doubt it.

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