CENTRAL Reviewed in Las Vegas Weekly

ELV note: our review of Central can be accessed in its original format by clicking here, or continue reading to bathe yourself in the soul-cleansing, appetite-exfoliating, succulence-sloughing prose for which we are known.

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Whether or not you like Central (pronounced sen-TRAL) pretty much depends on whether you like your 24-hour-a-day casino restaurants to be ho-hum coffee shops or demand more from their food. Caesars Palace is gambling that this chef-driven spot right off its main lobby will satisfy the latter niche and raise the bar for dining and drinking for all three meals it serves. For two of those three, it seems to be succeeding. The third has a long way to go.

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CENTRAL – First Bites (and Impressions)

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As luck would have it, ELV ran into three notable restaurant people this past weekend. Each had been to Central at Caesars and each had a definite opinion about it. Here are tidbits of some of the conversations:

Well Known Executive Chef at Famous Restaurant Group (WKECAFRG): “I love the concept. If I had it (right off the Caesars check-in lobby), I’d do 15 mil a year…(but) some of my food was in-ed-ible. The deviled eggs were spoiled and the shrimp cocktail was cheap, frozen shrimp with a mostly Heinz ketchup sauce.”

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CENTRAL Set to Open Tuesday

ELV update: Now they’re telling us it will open Wednesday, September 7th.

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Why is this Frenchman (and the Frenchmen below) smiling? Because Central (sen-TRAL) is set to open this Tuesday in Caesars Palace — right smack next to the front valet and check-in desks — making it overnight the busiest three-meal-a-day restaurant in town. Correction: It will be the busiest 24-hour-a-day restaurant in town. The plan is for Central never to close, making it the go-to spot for those seeking quality late night bites…instead of the Peppermill/Denny’s-grade food most late night revelers are stuck with.

Hmmm…a chef-driven restaurant that never closes? A first for Las Vegas (or anywhere) to be sure, and one that will be fascinating to watch…and sample…at all hours of the day.

Corporate Executive Chef David Deshaies tells Eating Las Vegas the menu will be substantially similar to the James Beard Award-winning fare of the original Central in Washington (D. C., not Kansas), with a menu expansion of perhaps 20-30% to accommodate the international tastes of the Vegas tourist market.

Michel Richard’s steak frites, cheeseburger, fried chicken, rotisserie chicken and desserts are already legendary, so we’re guessing things are about to get even tastier around Caesars Palace….and al fresco dining — something long and inexplicably ignored by Vegas hotels — is about to get another delicious shot in the arm.

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CENTRAL

In Caesars Palace Hotel and Casino

3570 Las Vegas Blvd. South

Las Vegas, NV 89109

702.650.5921

http://www.centrallv.com/