Eating History at EL SOMBRERO

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They don’t make ’em like El Sombrero any more. Every town, hamlet and city in the Southwest used to have one, or a number of them. Little hole-in-the-wall Mexican joints with a cook and a family working away, seven days a week, rolling out tortillas, pureeing chilies and dishing up the food of their homeland for folks of all stripes.

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