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The dim sum at Orchid Garden isn’t bad…but it isn’t that good either. Most of it is best-hits-standard-issue, without a single deviation from, or innovative tweaking of, the Cantonese dumpling canon like you’ll find at Ping Pang Pong or even, on occasion, Cathay House.

Some offerings are pretty good (shrimp won tons), some are decent enough (fried pork and leek dumplings in wheat starch wrapper, shu mai steamed pork), and some are downright atrocious (lard-y, puny don tot (egg tarts), and gummy pasty cha siu sou (baked, barbecue pork triangles). If you aren’t a dim sum snob (amazingly, ELV isn’t*), you will leave satisfied (we were). If you demand delicacy and dreaminess in your dumplings, head to the Gold Coast…or as you can read in the comments below, to the West Coast!

That is all.

ELV’s dim sum brunch for two came to $25 and we left a $7 tip).

ORCHIDS GARDEN

5485 West Sahara Ave.

Las Vegas, NV 89146-0308

702.631.3839

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* Dim sum you see, is a lot like barbecue, sex and pizza, i.e., the worst we ever had was still pretty good.