We’ve been to SPARROW + WOLF twice, and plan a third visit before doing a formal review. But as a public service, we thought we’d post some tasty snaps of some of the more interesting dishes to give you, our loyal readers, an idea of what you’re in for when you check it out.
Two caveats: 1) when we say “the more interesting dishes” we basically mean most of the menu, which is nothing if not interesting, and 2) all judgments are reserved until said review, and nothing said herein should be seen as an endorsement of, or opprobrium for, any of the plates, food, drinks or service.
So, without further ado, here’s what you’ll be doing when you get there:
Cozy interior + Big window + Busy bartenders =
Wine refrigerator + Retail sales available + $20 corkage =
Wood + Wood smoke + Fragrant smell of burning wood (this is a good thing) =
Funny names + Punny names + 5-ingredient cocktails =
Good stemware =
Good beers + Acceptable wines + Decent prices + New Mexican sparkler =
Fresh baked bread + Butter at the right temperature =
Oyster one way + Oyster another way + Oyster a third way =
Bento box + Charcuterie + Lamb tartare + Lump crab + Big shrimp =
Smoke + Burnt wood + Brown booze =
Beets! + The fact that chefs can’t stop serving me beets =
Oddly arranged artichokes + The fact that thistle lovers like alliteration =
Very Spring-y sweetbreads + Peas + Pea shoots + Bacon-wrapped cabbage + Seasonal eating =
Butcher wings + Burnt tomato + Ndjua vinaigrette =
Hamachi + Lychee + Rice cracker =
Maryland blue crab + Kimchee + Crabmeat + Egg =
Duck + Foie gras + Wood ear ‘shrooms + Salted cukes + Plum-duck broth =
Halibut + Alabama white bbq sauce + Citrus confit =
Dry-aged steak + Cephalopod =
Calamansi + Blueberry + Tart =
That’s enough to digest for one Tuesday morning. We’ll give chef Brian Howard and his crew another week or so to get their sea legs under them before we visit again.
In the meantime, just remember this equation: Sparrow + Wolf = unique gastropub.
SPARROW + WOLF
4480 Spring Mountain Road
Las Vegas, NV 89102