BACHI BURGER

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Have you been to Bachi Burger? Is the question every semi-foodie, foodie-wannabe, and psuedo-hipster-foodie has asked ELV in the past few weeks.

And after one meal there, we’ve decided that’s just who this place is aimed at.

‘Cuz it sure ain’t aimed at people who love great hamburgers.

Unless you define a good burger as one that’s packed so tightly you’d swear it just came out of a freezer, is overcooked to death, and under seasoned to boot.

“Oh, but you’ve gotta try the Banh Mi burger,” they all told me. “It’s fabulous!”

It is if your definition of fabulous is, an overcooked mishmash of beef and pork, that’s once again way too dense and dry, and garnished with a piece of Vietnamese shrimp ball and a smattering of pickled vegetables.

“And you’ve gotta get the duck buns….Wow! They’re the best!” was yet another refrain we’ve heard from eaters who are apparently so starved for something that’s not a five dollar foot long, they’ll go ga-ga over the saltiest pieces of duck breast we’ve had in a coon’s age.

How salty were our Peking duck buns?

They were so salty:

– We’ll never be in danger of drowning again.

Deer were lining up at the back door for a lick.

– The Mclhenny Company wants to mine them for Tabasco Sauce.

The Dead Sea is jealous.

– Frito-Lay wants the recipe.

– Mormons are making pilgrimages here.

You get the picture.

Our guess is the enthusiasm over Bachi Burger is because it’s not a chain and it’s something new.

But finely ground, tightly packed, overcooked meat does not a great burger make.

Nor do lame imitations of Momofuku-type steamed bun sandwiches.

On the plus side, the burger buns were soft, sweet, eggy and fresh, and were, in retrospect, the best thing about the sandwiches.

It’s all very depressing to ELV, because, once again, some chef or restaurateur (cf. Lola’s, Carlito’s Burritos) strikes out with a good idea, and then can’t execute it, either because they’re undercapitalized, understaffed, or just plain too un-talented to pull it off.

Or maybe they will pull it off. Because people here are so starved for something different they’ll overlook the poor execution.

Or maybe that execution will improve.

Hope springs eternal.

BACHI BURGER

470 East Windmill Suite #100

Las Vegas, NV 89123

702.242.2244

http://www.bachiburger.com/