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We told Chef Tom Moloney we were embarrassed for having taken so long to re-visit Aqua Knox. It had been at least four years since last we indulged in the superior swimmers they cook here, and our memories were nothing but good. In fact, it was a definitive Dover sole that cemented this place’s reputation in our minds as a first class fish cookery, but inexplicably, we had strolled past at least a hundred times on our way to David Burke, Valentino, B & B, Delmonico or Bouchon without stopping in for at least a nibble.