Summer Dish Review – Squash Blossom Omelette at PUBLICUS

Apotheosis: a·poth·e·o·sis

əˌpäTHēˈōsəs/

noun

noun: apotheosis; plural noun: apotheoses

 

the highest point in the development of something; culmination or climax.

“his appearance as Hamlet was the apotheosis of his career”

the elevation of someone to divine status; deification.

In other words, what Chef Shawn Giordano does with a flat omelette at PublicUs — basting it in butter and festooning it with onion jam and squash blossoms.

It is the exaltation of the egg, if you will; the glorification of all that is fresh, silky, sensual, savory and sweet about a summer solstice or sunny sustenance.

It’s also the best goddamned egg dish we’ve had in a coon’s age.

PUBLICUS

http://www.publicuslv.com/

Summer Dish Review – Chicken Sandwich at GLUTTON

Because everything tastes better on a pretzel roll.

And because no one does a better chicken sandwich than Bradley Manchester at Glutton.

Although, now that we think about it, the one down the street at Carson Kitchen is pretty damn good too:

Balance, sauce, bread and spice: each of these has it in spades. And each is made by a chef who’s trying to make you the best damn sandwich he or she can, every time you order one.

Which is often. Which is why we love eating in Downtown Las Vegas. And why Downtown Las Vegas is pretty much the sandwich capital of the world.

Can you prove that it isn’t true?

GLUTTON

http://www.gluttonlv.com/

CARSON KITCHEN

http://carsonkitchen.com/

 

Summer Dish Review – Uni in Dashi Gelee at YONAKA

 Depending on who you talk to, the season for uni (sea urchins) is either in June and March, or August, September and October.

Which means  the correct time to eat these porcupines of the sea is either when the weather is hot, or cool, or hot and about to get cool.

Confused? Well, join the club.

All we know is we like to eat these gonads (yes, you are eating the testicles of a sea urchin) whenever they’re swollen (mating season!) and when they taste of the sweet, briny sea — not of a muddy, brackish tidal pool.

We also know we love them whenever Ramir DeCastro is whipping them into shape at Yonaka.

And when he decides to encase them in a dashi gelée, and serve it with a piquant calamansi creme fraiche — accompanied by little bundles of Alaskan king crab (wrapped in uni crepes)  —  you know you have about the most ingenious little surf & surf & surf jelly plate on the planet.

About everything DeCastro does floats our boat, but these were something special…and a good measure of just how sophisticated tastes have gotten out in the ‘burbs.

YONAKA MODERN JAPANESE

http://www.yonakajapaneserestaurant.com/