Click here to read my latest article for The Virtual Gourmet, found at JohnMariani.com, about where the locals dine in Las Vegas. It features 3 top spots that not only offer great value, but are also open for lunch.
Category: Reviews
Breaking Martorano’s Balls
We don’t know what’s more offensive about this ode to the Sopranos in the Rio: the glare, the stare, the unappetizing tats, or the $23 meatball on the menu.
The egotistical entreaty: “Don’t break my balls.” printed on the menu is a lame, preemptive strike against any Paulie Walnuts wannabe who might complain about the excessive prices, and the highly mediocre Southern Italian food. Single diners aren’t allowed at tables (even when the place is empty, and likely to remain that way for hours), and no one is allowed to drink cocktails in the dining room for fear of corrupting such innovative recipes as chicken parmagiana and veal marsala.
That $23 meatball, is no joke either, and whether you are a meatball, or just love them, you’ll find better ones at Rao’s just down the street.
Bouchon’s Beautiful Bivalves
Bouchon has come in for more than a little criticism from yours truly over the years. It’s a copy of a copy and has exactly the soul of one. But there’s no denying that it consistently has the best oysters in Las Vegas (RM and Morel’s are a close second and third), and the moules frites are just as memorable. The menu as a whole doesn’t push any envelopes, and the wine list is booooring-(whassup with that Thomas?)-but there’s no denying the beauty of those Kumamotos, Dabobs or Fanny Bays.