CAFE BA BA REEBA – Tapas Tales

It was probably unfair to visit Cafe Ba Ba Reeba two days after returning from munching on tapas prepared by three of the finest chefs of Spain — Alfonso Beltran, Paxti Bergara and Jose Manuel Crespo. Crespo, for one, has published a book on the elevation of the traditional Spanish tortilla de patatas and its many variations, and Begara, for another, has won a “Best Tapas” award in Spain. All of them dazzled the crowds at the CIA’s World’s Of Flavor Conference with an array of small plates you usually won’t find outside of San Sebastian.

But with tastes sharpened and senses heightened, we kept an open mind and went to the Fashion Show Mall last week for a lunch of small plates — as opposed to a small plate lunch. And what we found was food as solid as it has always been at this Lettuce Entertain You outpost.

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DAVID BURKE

Dinner was at David Burke in the Venetian last night (our fifth meal here).

The steak is advertised as a prime, dry-aged, New York Strip. It tastes like one should (although not as aged, mineral rich, beefy and funky as the best beef we’ve had at Keens, Palm, Gallagher’s, BLT Prime, BLT Steak, Wolfgang’s, Spark’s, Ben Benson’s and Peter Luger’s in the Big Apple). Still, it is one of the better dry-aged steaks in town. It cost $48.

The (small) iceberg wedge salad was sprinkled with nice, meaty bacon chunks and not enough thousand island dressing. It was made with lettuce that was at least two days past its prime. At $16, it’s a steal….from the diner.

Bread was never offered.

Rounding out the meal were two glasses of a Chapoutier Rhone grenache-syrah blend, at $13/per; and a half-order of cheese that wasn’t bad…but wasn’t that good either.

Total cost of the meal: $121, for one. Accompanying it was a constant blast of tunes ranging from The Verve to Bono to Johnny Cash and Bob Marley — along with lots and lots of Rolling Stones songs that ELV was tired of listening to in 1977.

And no, it wasn’t worth it.

DAVID BURKE

In The Venetian Hotel and Casino

3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South

Las Vegas, NV 89109

702.414.7111

www.davidburkelasvegas.net/