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It’s no secret Beso has had a few problems over the past year. Owner/actress/former NBA fan Eva Longoria has done what she can to right the ship, even going so far as to do a super-glam photo shoot on the premises, but we at ELV think the better course would be to let Chef Matt Piekarski keep doing his thing in the kitchen, in hopes the food will soon match the (former, now faded) buzz of the place.
The last time I paid serious attention to an Emeril Lagasse restaurant, Congress was asking Monica Lewinsky to explain the stains on her dress. Polite company should not be forced to discuss such things, so I’ve tried to avoid both subjects since the turn of the century. It’s not that I don’t like Emeril—he’s a charming, generous and funny guy—but the mass appeal of his ingredient-heavy, caloric, fatty, often charmless food is lost on yours truly. When he opened Table 10 in the Palazzo in 2008, two meals there convinced me his food (as it appears outside of New Orleans) was headed straight to Applebee’s land. Then, a month ago, an email arrived from chef Sean Roe that intrigued me …
Anything too stupid to be spoken is sung. – Voltaire
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What’s the point of ELV enduring the endless, mind-numbing, soul-stealing stroll through Treasure Island (or TI or whatever the f*ck they’re calling it these days) to eat a bowl(s) of stew that was certain to be shameful?
Why, for old time’s sake of course! Plus the fact that a good bowl of red is about as rare as surströmming in these here parts.