Category: Reviews

RM SEAFOOD redux

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We’ve never asked Rick Moonen what the secret is to his taramasalata. In fact, there isn’t any big secret to the fish roe dip — you make it by blending grey mullet (or carp or cod) roe with stale, soaked bread, lemon juice, garlic, onion and oil — but that doesn’t explain how or why his tastes better than any other one we’ve ever had. But it just does. There’s something about the silky/coarse/creamy consistency, with just a hint of fishiness and a definite tang, that separates this Olympian offering from plebian, plagiaristic provisions. Regardless of pedigree, his version pummels all others, and is worth a special trip.

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BENTO by MOzen

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MOzen has been the best Indian restaurant in Las Vegas since the day it opened. It also excels at its Japanese and Asian specialties (as befitting the hotel it resides in). Because of these strengths, it has decided to re-brand itself as Bento by MOzen, at the dinner hour, and concentrate on what it does best, instead of positioning itself as an all-things-to-all-diners restaurant after dark . And what it does best is cater to the finicky palates of the well-heeled, well-traveled swells who bed down here — people who appreciate the finest in tom yum goong, dal makahani, and tandoori chicken that will make them/you weep.

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