Chinatown Census 2026 – with ratings

Image

We’ve been a Chinatown nut since 1995. To understand why, you have to remember that thirty years ago, the local restaurant scene, to the extent it existed at all, was dominated by strip mall Italians and steakhouses so lame that a double-stuffed baked potato was considered a big deal. Regional Chinese cooking was unheard of, and Spring Mountain Road was famous only for its potholes.

Into this sorry state of culinary affairs stepped the Chinatown Plaza, with multiple venues featuring everything from Chinese bbq (Sam Woo’s) to Shanghai dumplings to live seafood in tanks. It was looked at more as a curiosity than a gastronomic destination for over a decade. Desperate for anything that broke the Vegas restaurant mold, we not only ate it up (literally) from the get-go, but also wrote the first article about it (featuring the 99 Ranch Market) for Las Vegas Life magazine. All of this is to say our love for the place runs deep, and we unapologetically assert that no other gwailo has spent as much time there as we have.

Our Chinatown Census Crawl 2026 is the kind of dumb-ass undertaking only a restaurant obsessive would do (GUILTY!) — given the recent explosive growth which renders an accurate census akin to herding cats, even as they are spitting out litters.  Undaunted, we have spent the last month walking every square inch of Spring Mountain Road (and its side streets) to get an firm count of what will always be a moving target –and to give you updated ratings of all the sit-down restaurants we deem worthy along this three mile stretch.

Keep in mind this was after having done pretty much the same thing (in a more relaxed fashion) for the past thirty years. ;-)

Image

A few random notes about our methodology, results and conclusions before we get to the ratings:

> For those interested, Chinatown.com dropped its own census last month, but we daresay it was done (mostly) from the comfort of a computer screen. Their count was 248 restaurants/food service outlets, so there is a slight disagreement between us. We attribute this to some closures of some small places they counted, and few tiny storefronts we probably missed.

> Thirteen years ago we did a similar survey, but no one but us really cared. Back then, we counted 110 restaurants, of which we had eaten in 92. As of March 1, 2026, we counted 239 food service outlets, with 169 of those representing real, full-blown restaurants (not tea/dessert shops) coming from six Asian cuisines. Sprinkled among them are a handful of non-Asian places (Partage, Sparrow+Wolf, Amador, et al) who have caught the wave and enhanced the culinary reputation of the neighborhood in the process. No matter whose count you accept, we can all agree that the growth here has been explosive and has more than doubled in the past decade. With all of this in mind, here are a few random thoughts, starting with some unavoidable negativity:

> A LOT of the growth has been in quantity, not quality. Tea shops come and boba — all using the same playbook and appealing strictly to downmarket customers. Trying to catalogue them is a fool’s errand, as many have the half-life of a banana. Sturdier, but no less depressing has been the infestation of seafood slop (e.g. Hot & Juicy Crawfish, et al) and “claw shops” — many of which serve snacks and the ubiquitous tapioca teas to go with the stupidest waste of time since slot machines.

> The dumbing down of Chinatown doesn’t stop with shitty fish, arcades, and super sweet drinks. In lock step with its teenage-i-fication has been the proliferation of AYCE sushi, bottomless Korean bbq, and hot pots galore. Cheap eats has always been the watchword here, but this race to the bottom now threatens to overwhelm the authenticity which made the place famous.

> In this same vein, Big Asian $$$ has planted its corporate REIT paw foursquare along SMR, with big plazas aplenty  (about 20 right now) and more on the way.

> Most of these are filled with logos, chain links, and franchises already familiar to the East Asian diaspora — the better for investors to cash in while elbowing out the mom and pops.

> The best places to eat are still locally-owned (with a few exceptions), but you either have to have a keen eye, the nose of a pan-Pacific bloodhound, or a special friend (RAISES HAND) to help you find them. Rule of thumb (with exceptions): The flashier the signage, the worse the food.

> Biggest surprise: It’s called Chinatown (based upon the original plaza constructed in 1995), and but Japanese restaurants now predominate (58 spots/34% of the total), with China (36/21%)  and Korea (35/21%) neck and neck for second place among all the Asian eateries. Vietnamese (17/10%) and Thai (8/5%) bring up the rear, while India, Hawaii, and the Philippines are almost invisible. Indonesian/Malaysian food, which used to boast several options, is nonexistent.

> Of the final 239 restaurants counted (including all the dessert and tea shops), I have eaten in 139 (or 58%) of them. (Standing offer: find me anyone who’s eaten in more of Chinatown than I have over the past 30 years and I’ll buy both of you lunch. And by lunch I mean a good lunch.)

> Of course, the final counts are interesting, but given our place in the Las Vegas food firmament, tea needs to be spilled, judgments decreed, and restaurants ranked. So below are the top options up and down Spring Mountain Road. Highly subjective, of course, but also thoroughly researched, for over thirty years. We don’t rate anything we haven’t tried, and most (the vast majority, in fact) have been visited multiple times.

Here is the ratings breakdown and legend, and, as usual, everything comes with the Being John Curtas/Eating Las Vegas guarantee: All opinions valid or your money back!

Image

 

Two bowls rice Vectors - Download Free High-Quality Vectors from Freepik | Freepik

Three rice bowls: (13)

Excellent. Highly recommended. Often at a price:

Aburiya RakuJapanese pioneer Mitsuo Endo still sets the izakaya standard.

Amador Oscar Amador Edo’s take on Spanish-Latin fusion is casual, intimate, and a blast of fun and flavor.

China Mama (original location) – The OG of Chinese pastries is still the best, and we’ve never had anything on the rest of the menu we didn’t love.

8 Ounce Korean Steakhouse – The proper, top-shelf antidote to all the bargain basement beef which has infected the boulevard.

Endo – Exclusive (six seats/twice nightly), very expensive, and magnificent.

Kaiseki Sanga  – Dinner and a show, aimed at those who eat by Instagram, but even serious sushi hounds will find plenty to love.

Kaiseki Yuzu – Elegant, subdued, refined, like a small slice of Shinjuku tucked away where only the aficionados can find it.

Kame – Serious stuff at a serious price, not advised for anyone allergic to truffles, caviar, or gold leaf with their fish.

Le Club by Partage – Casual, champagne-focused adjunct to its epicurean sibling next door, serving slices and sips of France before or after your sushi.

Partage – We’re so over tasting menus (#grumpyoldman), but there’s no denying Yuri Szarzewski’s seasonal menus are some of the tastiest in town.

Shanghai Taste – Everyone claims the best xiao long bao, but Jimmy Li’s are the only ones we dream of.

Sparrow + Wolf – No one thought a gastronomic, non-Asian restaurant could succeed in Chinatown until Brian Howard proved them wrong. Simply stunning Asian-inflected, Euro-American bistro cooking, also with one of the best steaks in Vegas.

Yui Edomae Sushi – If pristine, Tokyo-style fish on rice is your thing (without the pyrotechnics and cartwheels of its competition), then locate this demure door off of Arville Ave. and enter a world of sushi like it’s supposed to be.

 

Two Bowls Of Basmati White Rice With Wooden Chopsticks Stock Photo, Picture and Royalty Free Image. Image 106756839.

Two rice bowls: (28)

Rice Bowl With Chopsticks PNG, Vector, PSD, and Clipart With Transparent Background for Free Download | Pngtree

88 Noodle Papa

Banchan (take-out only, but our Korean friends swear by it)

BBQ King

Capital Seafood

Cō Anh

Crown Bakery

Fuku Burger

Gabi Coffee

Gyu Sandos

Hobak Korean BBQ

Honey Pig

Ichiza

It’s Izakaya

Kare Japanese Curry

Kung Fu Thai & Chinese

Moobongri Soondae

Noodlehead

Oonigiri Okinawa

Pho Kim Long

Full Metal Jacket - Me love you long time on Make a GIF

Q Bistro

Ramen Show

Ramen Sora

Ramen Tatsu

Roma Deli (only if you insist upon eating Italian in an Asian neighborhood)

Image

POP! Café (ignore the kids, get the pizza ∧, and thank us later)

Shigotonin

Shinjuku Ramen

Silver Lake Ramen

Taiwan Deli

Tang Tang Tang

Ten Seconds Yunan Rice Noodle

Xiao Long Dumpling

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

japanese wooden chopsticks vector

 

Japanese restaurants

Top 3:

Aburiya Raku

Endo

Kaiseki Yuzu

888 Japanese BBQ Premium AYCE

Chamon

Chubby Cattle A.Y.C.E. Japanese BBQ

Chubby Skewers

EKI Ramen

Endo

Gyu Sandos

Hachi Izakaya

Hanare Ichiza

Hashi Ramen

Ichiza

Imperial Sushi Seafood Buffet

It’s Izakaya

It’s Sushi

Izakaya Go

Kabuto

Kaiseki Yuzu

Kame

Kare Japanese Curry

Kaya Sushi

Kura Sushi

Mikiya Wagyu Shabu House

Miu Japanese BBQ

Monta Noodles

Nabe Hot Pot

Nakamura-Ya

Neko AYCE Sushi & Massage

Neko Supremo

Nisei Bar & Grill – Gastro Pub

Oden Spicy Hot Pot

Oonigiri Okinawa

Pepper Lunch

PokeMan

Raku Izakaya

Ramen Boys

Ramen Show

Ramen Sora

Ramen Tatsu

Sakura Sushi

Samurai Japanese BBQ

Sanga Kaiseki

Sapporo Revolving Sushi

Shabu Rokka

Shabuya

Shigotonin

Shinjuku Ramen

Shin-Sen-Gumi

Shokku Ramen

Silver Lake Ramen

Sumo A.Y.C.E. Sushi

Sushi Time

Taru Sushi

Ton Shou Katsu & Izakaya

Tora Japanese Katsu 7 Curry

Yama Sushi

Yohama Noodles

Yui Edomae Sushi

Zen Japanese Curry

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Image

Chinese restaurants

Top 3:

China MaMa (Original location)

New Asian BBQ 

Palette Tea Lounge

88 Noodle Papa

All Seasons

Asian BBQ & Noodle

BBQ Garden Chinese Kitchen

BBQ King

Bowl of Fortune

Capital Seafood

Chengdu Taste

China Mama – (original location)

China Mama – (Shanghai Plaza)

Chubby Cattle Mongolian Hot Pot

Dan Noodle

Dim Sumlicious

Fish With You

Fortune

Hong Kong Garden

Hong Lou

Hot Point Malatang Hot Pot

Hunan Rice Noodle

Malatown

New Asian BBQ

Noodle Pot

Noodlehead

Palette Tea Lounge

Pot Master

Pot On Fire

Rice To-Go

S K Seafood

Shanghai Taste

Special Noodle

Taiwan Deli

Ten Seconds Yunnan Rice Noodle

The Noodle Man

Xiang Wei Xuan

Xiao Long Dumpling

Yunnan Tasty Garden

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Image

Korean restaurants

Top 3:

8 Ounce Korean Steakhouse

Tang Tang Tang

Yi’s Traditional Korean Beef Soup

(unrecognizable writing Korean only)

777 Korean Restaurant

8 Ounce Korean Steakhouse

888 Korean BBQ A.Y.C.E.

Banchan

BBQ Chicken

Bul & Gogi Korean BBQ

Captain 6 Hot Pot & AYCE Korean BBQ

ChoJang Korean Hot Pot

CrunCheese

Doya Korean Pancake

Garionban Korean Restaurant

Hobak Korean BBQ

Honey Pig

Hot Tofu

Hwaro 2 Korean AYCE

Hwaro Korean AYCE

Jin Jin

Jinju Gomtang Korean

Jjamppong Zizon

K Chiken

Korean Garden

Lee’s Korean BBQ

Master Kim’s Korean

Moobongri Soondae’

Mr. BBQ Korean P.A.Y.C.E.

Mr. Tofu

Nalsoo Korean BBQ

Q Bistro

Seoul Korean Restaurant

Seoul Tofu

Tang Korean

Tang Tang Tang

Tofu Hut

Yi’s Traditional Korean Beef Soup

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Image

Vietnamese restaurants:

Top 3:

Pho Saigonese

Yen Viet Kitchen

Cð Ahn

Baguette Factory & Euro-Asian Sandwiches

Lee’s Sandwiches

Pho Beyond
Pho Thanh
Viet Noodle Bar
Pho 79 DC
Pho & More
Pho 90
Pho Vietnam
Pho Kim Long
Pho Bac Bac
Pho Concept (Pho So 1)
Pho 7
Dan Han Banh Mi

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Image

Thai Restaurants:

Top 3:

Jipata

Lamaii

Weera Thai (Shanghai Plaza)

Bangkok Street Food

Jipata

Kao Gang Thai Food

Kung Fu Thai & Chinese

Lamaii

Lulla Bar Thai Fusion

Weera Thai

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

Kung Hei Fat Choy In English at Mary Bevis blog

…from the Chinatown Boyz:

Image

 

Major Awards 2024

50" Deluxe Christmas Leg Lamp Plain Cardboard Box

 

It’s award season, and true to yearly form, our wits are sharpened, appetite is keen, and patience at an end. So buckle up, pilgrim…

Its Going To Be A Bumpy Ride GIFs | Tenor

Best Restaurant That’s Closest to My House: Le Thai 2

Best Restaurant That No One Goes To: Jamon Jamon Woodfired

Best Restaurant That’s So Crowded No One Goes There Anymore: Esther’s Kitchen

Image

Restaurant That Deserves to be More Famous Than It Is: Ada’s Food + Wine– Don’t call it a wine bar any more. Jackson Stamper, Kat Thomas and James Trees have turned this corner of Tivoli Village into our town’s most adventuresome gastropub. Surf and turf in-your-face concoctions like nowhere else. Witness the coconut broth mussels above. Paired with a fascinating wine list at prices that won’t have you reaching for a respirator.

Fucktard of the Year Award: Fountainebleu – because after we pointed out what a rip-off the wine lists were throughout the hotel (and got a bit of traction for it on social media), the p.r. folks (and executives) went into full hose job mode, assuring me the hotel really “cared about locals” and wanted its restaurants (and wine lists) to be accessible to a wide range of customers, not just high rollers and rich douchebags. Waited a month and went back. Nothing had changed. Waited another month. Nada. Poked around a few weeks ago….if anything prices have gotten worse. (Good luck finding a bottle for less than $100, anywhere in the hotel.) Then they took the excellent burger off the menu at Don’s Prime because, as one insider told me: “It was getting too popular and people were buying it instead of $100 steaks.” In other words, everything about the place now screams “We’re only here to rip-off people with more money than sense,” and encapsulates everything we hate about late-stage Las Vegas.

F**k the Fountainebleu with a rusty corkscrew.

Speaking of hotels….

grandpa simpson old man yells at cloud Blank Template - Imgflip

Hotel(s) Whose F & B programs We Don’t Give a Shit About Anymore: Basically all of them except Wynn/Encore and Venetian/Palazzo. The opposite of love isn’t hate; the opposite of love is indifference.

Only Steakhouse That Gets Us to the Strip Without Too Much Kvetching: Peter Luger

Told You So Award: Lotus of Siam’s ill-fated partnership with Red Rock Hotel-Casino (see further discussion below).

Runner-Up:  The Sundry Food Hall at Uncommons – because everything about this place (from the ghost kitchens to the QR codes) was stupid from the jump.

Best Smashburger: Stay Tuned Burger – Hard Hat Lounge ($12):

Image

Burger of the Year: the pop-up, $15 semi-smash burger at Featherblade Craft Butchery:

Image

Enough Already Award: Smashburgers

Enough Already GIFs | Tenor

 

Image

Croissant of the Year: 1228 MainHear all about these mille-feuille marvels on Eat. Talk. Repeat. here.

Image(Let’s taco about how good these are..)

Tacos of the Year: Carnitas y Tortas Asahogadas (above)

Pleasant Surprise Award: Brasserie B by Bobby Flay, 6666 Ranch Steakhouse, Spring by Chinamama, Caramá – our degree of skepticism was only matched by how impressed we were by the food at each of these. If this keeps up, we may start getting excited by the food in Strip hotels again.

Image

Image

Pancake(s) of the Year: Chamana’s Cafe’s blueberry and Winnie & Ethel’s banana-pecan  beauties (above and above)

Image

Hot Dog of the Year: Windy City Beefs ‘n Dogs loaded Chicago Dog (above)

Image(The 70s called, they want their color scheme back)

Image(Ash Watkins, calling all Ottomans!)

Turkish Pimp Bordello Award: Palate (above)

Dat Sum Dim Sum Award: Palette Tea Lounge (Yes, we know, it gets confusing.)

Image(Muchas gracias, Julian!)

Game Changer/Riding Into the Sunset Award: Julian Serrano – who retires after a quarter century of excellence, knowing his enthusiasm, dedication and haute cuisine chops changed the face of Las Vegas. Read more about Serrano’s legacy in this month’s Desert Companion Restaurant Awards (some of which were written by someone you might recognize).

Image

Never Again Award: Marché Bacchus (above) – because what was once a passion restaurant has become a money restaurant. The above pic was from a recent visit, at peak brunch hour (1:00 pm) on a Saturday. As my dad used to say: “All the people who aren’t eating there are trying to tell you something.”

Runner-Up: Lotus of Siam Red Rock Hotel and Casino – which is as close to the edgy, in-your-face flavors and authenticity of the real LOS as Bangkok is to the Bellagio.

Image

Underappreciated Award: The Legends Oyster Bar & Grill – for the freshest seafood (and fabolous ‘ersters, above) you’ll find, 250 miles from the nearest ocean. Also, now with a second location in Henderson!

Image

Brunch It and They Will Come Award: Mi Barrio – which answered the question: Just how bad can Mexican food get and still pull a crowd? Exhibit One (above): what they called a “Milanese” torta, and what we called shoe leather burnt to an inedible crisp. The prosecution has five more exhibits but will rest with this one. We didn’t think anything could make Casa Don Juan look good, but this place manages to.

F**k Mi Barrio and it’s slack-jawed, endless margarita crowd with a stale tortilla.

As long as we’re trashing mediocre Mexicans…

Mexican Disappointment of the Year: Los Molcajetes – what was once a favorite is now straight outta Sysco – proving that Mexican food can be just as terrible in the barrio as it is in the ‘burbs.

Phoning It In Award: Eater Vegas – for continuing to live down to expectations with nonsense like this:

Image

…which begs all sorts of questions: Why are two of the five “best restaurant” awards going to bars (with a third being more about “hanging” than eating)? Also, were there no contenders for “Grooviest Playlist” or “Best Chef Tattoos”? Shame. And finally: How far up their collective rectum did the Eater writer(s) have to reach for these?

Image

Wine Bar of the Year: Wineaux – slick, comfy build-out, good vibes (are you listening Eater?), beautiful food. One of the few joints that can induce us to travel 15 miles for a bite.

Italian(s) of the Year (toss-up): Brezza, Caramá, Vetri, Cipriani, Ferraro’s, Matteo’s – Las Vegas is lousy with Italian, but these are six of the best.

Unsung Italian Award: Aromi– make that seven.

Image(When you get a hankerin’ for Hunanese)

Chinese Meal of the Year: Xiang Wei Xuan (above)

Vietnamese Meal of the Year: YEN Viet Kitchen

Image

Podcast of the Year: Eat. Talk. Repeat.– Are we biased? Does the Pope wear a beanie? Does the Navy have ships? Does a wild bear sh____you get the point. YOU BET we’re biased! But no one has more fun covering the Vegas restaurant scene that we do. (CAN YOU PROVE IT ISN’T TRUE?)

Runner-Up: City Cast Las Vegas – the newsy, trendy, gossipy, informative-yet-fun podcast you need to be listening to, daily.

Snoop Dogg Overexposure Award, Sponsored by Martha Stewart, produced and presented by Snoop Dogg, after a very special exclusive interview with Martha Stewart and Snoop Dogg: Caviar

Image

Foie Gras of the Year: Mae Daly’s– a more luscious piece(s) of duck liver (prepared two ways) you will not find anywhere in Vegas.

IHOP With Better Architecture Award: Norm’s

Chinese Hegemony Award: China MamaComing out of Covid, CM’s original location rebounded with a vengeance. Then it (literally) caught on fire. So they moved the operation to Shanghai Plaza, and opened a satellite take-out address on Rainbow. When they re-open the original location early next year, and a Palace Station outlet, this once-humble Shanghai noodle parlor will have seven locations across the Vegas Valley. Expansion this fast doesn’t happen unless major investor $$$s are involved. So far, quality-control at all the branches remains high. Hao Chī (right down the street from my ‘hood) and Spring by China Mama, have hit all their marks from the get-go. But experience tells us they’re going to have to simplify their approach when they open in the Palace Station, which has, for twenty years, been a graveyard where good eats go to die.

Image(Mitsuo Endo at work)

 

Japanese Meals of the Year (tie): ENDO, Raku, Izakaya Go, Kaiseki Yuzu, Sushi Hiro

ENDO has the most exquisite Japanese food in Las Vegas, with two seatings nightly (for only six lucky souls) — but it’ll cost you, bigly. Figure a grand a couple once some sake is folded in. As with ‘e’ by José Andrés, definitely an experience every budding gastronome owes themselves. Kaiseki Yuzu is slightly easier on the wallet, and a bit less precious. The other three are restaurants we could go to once a week and never tire of the food, or the (relatively) gentle tariffs.

Image

Drop Dead View of the Year: Vetri Cucina (above) and (below):

Image

Worst Meal of the Year: fingernail pizza at The Bootlegger (see it and weep):

Image

Regrettable Trend of the Year: the corporatization of local brands (cf. Bacchus, Marche, Siam, Lotus of), by restaurant groups who swoop in, with ice water in their veins and profits on the brain, to ruin what was once a good thing, all the while cynically calculating that the hoi polloi won’t notice. We noticed.

Image

Trend That Needs to Die a Sudden, Violent Death: Black food…especially black hamburger buns.

Image

Don’t Fill Up On Bread Award: the glazed, salty-doughy-sweet, drool-worthy Parker House rolls (above) at Scotch 80 Prime  which you’ll be tempted to make a meal in themselves.

Image(At half off, you can’t beat this meat)

Deal of the Year: the end-of-summer happy hour menu(s) at Scotch 80 Prime – which more than a few restaurants could learn a lesson from during the cash-strapped dog days of summer.

Cut Above Award (Steaks of the Year): Mae Daly’s, Nicco’s, Peter Luger

Image(Meat me at Mae Daly’s)

Something on The Strip To Look Forward To Award: Fabio Trabocchi bringing his exquisite Mediterranean seafood to the Wynn at Fiola Mare set to open early next year.

Image(Seafood risotto at La Rosetta, Roma)

Meal(s) of the Year:

Restaurant Guy Savoy (Las Vegas)

La Tour D’Argent (Paris, France not Texas)

L’Ambroisie (Paris, France not Kentucky)

Image

Gaya by Pierre Gagnaire (Paris, France not Illinois)

La Rosetta (Rome, Italy, not Georgia)

The Seafood Ristorante (St. Andrews, Scotland)

ENDO (Las Vegas, Nevada, not New Mexico)

Dish of the Year: Paella, hand-crafted by José Andrés at Jaleo– Bomba rice, spread a single kernel thick, in a paella pan the size of a manhole cover, over which he melted gossamer-thin Jamon Iberico De Bellota de pata negra, topped with premium Spanish oscetra caviar. All of it washed down with ‘o5 Dom Perignon. Proving that some of the greatest food experiences you will ever have are the unplanned ones, and Las Vegas (even without a world-famous chef at the stoves) can cook with the best of them.

Some days a guy just has to pinch himself.

Image

Image

Cheers and Happy Holidays from us and our staff at Being John Curtas/Eating Las Vegas.

Image

The Best Restaurant in Town

Kaiseki_Chef_SabinOrr_016_For_Web.jpg

Quality is always inversely proportional to quantity. – Lionel Pôilane

There are passion restaurants and there are money restaurants.

Passion restaurants are imbued with a feeling — a personal connection between staff and client — which is palpable. The people behind them are to the kitchen born, and can’t imagine themselves doing anything else.

Restaurants in it solely for the shekels betray themselves with a vibe (sometimes subtle, sometimes not so) which says, “you’re just a number to us.”

Ferraro’s is a passion restaurant; Raku is a passion restaurant; Tao is a money restaurant. Esther’s Kitchen began as a passion project but is now about to morph into the Denver Mint.

To be “The Best Restaurant in Las Vegas” you have to treat cooking as a religion, not a job. To be the best at anything, you have to be driven by something other than profit. When you think about things that way, the field gets very narrow, very quickly.

Before you jump down my throat faster than slippery bivalve, no one has to remind me that all taste is subjective and “the best” of anything is a concept more nebulous than a Donald Trump stump speech.

Dont Go There Girlfriend Girlfriend GIF - Dont Go There Girlfriend Dont Go There Girlfriend GIFs

My idea of what makes a restaurant “the best” are probably far different from yours. By “the best”, I mean an eatery of quintessential excellence, which brings a spiritual intensity and machine-like consistency to the table. Decor means little or nothing to me; service is important, but not primary; and the dazzle factor must all be on the plate.

Your idea of the best in town might be a plush, no expense spared beef emporium, dripping with umami and testosterone. Or it could be an elegant Italian, smooth as Gucci leather, where they always know your name and the pasta is nonpareil. Perhaps you put a greater emphasis on intensive care service, or cartwheels in the kitchen. Some of us seek adventure in eating; others crave familiarity. But there are standards, and we at ELV are here to uphold them.

So, for purposes of this discussion, these are the essentials…

Things it must be:

Singular, i.e., not part of a chain, a group or empire

Chef-driven

Food-focused

Made-from-scratch-centric

Quiet

Comfortable

Seasonal

Small

Serious (but not too)

Things it must not be:

Too big

Too popular

Too corporate

Too commercial

Too many recipes

Too many clowns – as customers or in the kitchen

Filled with men showing off or women whooping it up – but I repeat myself

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

KAISEKI YUZU_BestChefSouthWest 001_edited.jpg
Twenty-four-seat Japanese restaurants (with seven-seat sushi bars) are as far from a money restaurant as the Fountainebleau is from VRBO.

Which brings us to a sliver of a space, impossible to see from the street, tucked into an obscure corner of Chinatown. It sits behind a tire shop and to the left of an obscure Persian restaurant. If you don’t know what you’re looking for, you can be standing right in front of it and not know you’re mere feet away from a gastronomic trip to Japan –without the language barrier or a 13 hour plane flight.

Beyond the noren, the front door at Kaiseki Yuzu leads you into a dark, narrow hallway, decorated in spare, Japanese style, leading to the 30 seat kaiseki restaurant at its end. To your left (inches from the threshold) is a curtain leading to those six seats (above) and the most personally-crafted meal you can have in Las Vegas.

What chef-owner Kaoru Azeuchi (pictured at top of page) and his wife Mayumi have done since moving into this shoebox four years ago is remarkable. Not only have they garnered a James Beard Finalist nomination, but they have raised the bar for Japanese food in Las Vegas in a manner not seen since Mitsuo Endo opened Raku back in 2008.

Group_SabinOrr_014_For_Web.jpg(Soy good you’ll be wasabi yourself)

The kaiseki menu (above) — hyper-seasonal and glorious in its own right — is the main point of the restaurant. For the uninitiated, kaiseki is a very particular form of Japanese prix fixe dining (originally for the nobility), centered on precious ingredients, sourced at the peak of flavor, and fashioned into minimalist, edible art. Kazeuchi is a master of the craft, using the food chain (from the humblest of vegetables to the most exotic beef) to provide him a palette from which he creates masterpieces both visual and edible. If more beautiful food exists in Las Vegas, we haven’t found it.

The sushi bar at Kaiseki Yuzu wows you in a different way. The menu is the same price ($165/pp) as the $165 Chiku kaiseki, with fewer proteins than or the more luxurious Shou ($210) set. The emphasis at the bar is on Osaka-style sushi and pristine fish — an omakase experience where you sit back and enjoy the ride, because each of the ten or so dishes placed before you will concentrate your senses on the sublime expression of each ingredient.

Image(Yuzu need to come here)

 

Image(Osaka to me, John)

Chef John Mau (above) — a Michael Mina veteran — has commanded the sushi space since it opened last August. With a helpful assistant at his side (shout-out to Olivia!) he slices, dices, and explains everything from the five Zensai bites which start your meal to that impeccably chosen sushi to the Kanburi (yellowtail)  in a hypnotic shabu-shabu broth, whose crystalline appearance belies its potency.

Image(Souper douper)

Deceptively simple is a phrase often used to describe Japanese cuisine — where much more is always going on than meets the eye. So it is here with everything from the translucent rice to the immaculate fish. Even something as prosaic as a spicy tuna handroll is given new definition by being chopped before you, and barely folded into napkins of nori — echoing the sea in all its vegetal, sweet and saline glory.

Having a chef  in such close proximity, in the presence of such unsullied seafood, makes this a personal experience unlike any other in town.  The windowless room (very Japanese that) wraps you like a warm hug, and the gestalt of all three combines to make you do one thing: think about sushi like you’ve never considered it before. Every nuance is heightened; every bite attains a higher purpose — a commiseration between the animals which sustain us and the humans who enhance their taste. All done while making food delicious enough to send a happy shudder up my spine.

Image(Ricely done)

There is an intimacy born of a great Japanese dining experience which the West rarely approaches. It is born out of trust and respect between chef and customer. You are placing yourself in their hands (literally), and both sides recognize a bond created by what the chef will hand-craft to please, enlighten, and nourish you. The rawness of the cuisine, and its insistence upon absolute freshness, coupled with the hand-molding of almost every course demands this level of faith.

Japanese chefs make food taste most like itself, all while making it appetizing and beautiful. There is a distillation to the essence of things which informs their cuisine. There is no place to hide in a Japanese meal. If you give yourself over to it, you start appreciating why French chefs in the latter part of the last century flocked to Japan. It wasn’t only because the Japanese were micro-plating food decades before any Frenchman had heard of tweezering micro-greens. It was because this is high amplitude restaurant food in its purest expression. Kaiseki Yuzu is the closest thing we have to a trip to the Land of the Rising Sun, and it is right on our doorstep. There is no more unique, delightful, or passionate restaurant anywhere in Las Vegas.

Kaiseki_Exterior_SabinOrr_024_For_Web.jpg