24. SPAGO
Spago has been so good for so long we now take it for granted. It’s like the furniture — always there, always comfortable — but unlike the furniture, it can still surprise and dazzle you with whatever Executive Chef Eric Klein has decided to whip up that day.
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Carson Kitchen is a small place (only 46 seats as of this writing), that reminds us of Le Pigeon in Portland, Oregon, or Bar Jamon in New York City. The open kitchen is framed by an L-shaped bar, and you are so close to some of the action you can practically quiz the cooks on what they’re making as you wait for your plates. There are four tables at the front and then another large bar, on the other side of the small room, which doubles as a cocktail venue and communal seating for an array of drop-dead dishes the likes of which will shock you with their intensity and perfection.
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Yusho is the only restaurant in Las Vegas that would have made a bigger splash (and been a bigger hit) had it opened off the Strip, instead of (literally) on the Strip. To be more precise: on a Strip-facing corner of the Monte Carlo Hotel and Casino, where tourists seeking another artisanal beverage stroll on by (oblivious to the mastery before them), and locals wouldn’t venture if the beer were free and Joël Robuchon was the sous chef.
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