Returning to Bachi Burger was something we did with more than a bit of trepidation.
Keeping an open mind was paramount, as in: it was important leave our past opinions behind, and neither try to justify them or bend over backwards trying to make amends…since we seem to be the only critic in town who has ever uttered a negative word about it.
If you recall, two years ago we were less than impressed with our two meals there. But everyone in town seemed to disagree with us, so when we saw its new location had opened next to the Regal Village Square cinemas, it was time for a re-match. On the one hand, we figured nothing much had changed as the formula for the place has pretty much stayed the same. so whatever disappointed us then wouldn’t be any better now.
On the other hand, we hoped that maybe the kitchen had now ironed out some of the rough edges (such as the overly salty Peking duck), and brightened up some of the seasonings. And despite what some might think, ELV doesn’t enjoy getting medieval on someone’s ass, and genuinely admires the pluck and fortitude of owners who are trying to do something different and bringing better tasting vittles to the neighborhoods.
So, we wandered in before a movie and found ourselves face to face with the same menu, but in a dining room that’s been death to at least five other restaurants over the past 15 years.
The good news is, the food, this time, was flawless.
The bad news is, the feng shui of the room (and the history of the space cited above) does not bode well for this Bachi’s long term survival.
Before we go any further, let’s get one thing straight: ELV knows absolutely nothing about feng shui except how to pronounce it. But how else can we describe the effect of a large wall that runs down the center of the room, separating the dining areas, and making one side of the space feel completely unrelated to the other. The reason for it is unclear (to separate the large space into two smaller ones?), but the effect creates an odd sense of discomfort. That being said, the booth, tables and chairs are functionally comfortable.
As for that food, we revisited our old friends the Peking duck steamed buns and found them crispy, rich and meaty; the chili fried chicken as good as we remember it (with plenty of kick) and the oxtail chili cheese fries are so good they should be on a billboard.
As for the burgers, they’re still too tightly packed for our tastes, but there’s no denying the quality of the ingredients and the intriguing panoply of spices and accents that each one features. Instead of tasting like “any old turkey burger” the banh mi burger was strongly influenced by lemongrass and ginger, and Miyagi-san’s grass-fed wagyu burger (not pictured) was as beefy and rich as a burger patty can get. Only the Caesar salad disappointed — but then again, most do.
So….ELV is eating his (former) words about Bachi Burger. The new location may be challenging, and the interior a bit odd, but there’s no better place on the west side to grab a hand-tooled fusion burger before or after you enjoy some highbrow fare at the multiplex.
ELV’s two meals for two came to $50 and $60 — each including a 20% tip.
9410 West Sahara Ave. Suite 150
Las Vegas, NV 89117