The Barrymore strikes us as the kind of place that will be so cool, it will be the hottest joint in town the minute it opens.
Everything old is new again,” says Royal Resort owner Bob O’Neill, and the design of this intimate space speaks to a hip, re-channeling of classic Vegas, when tufted booths, flocked wallpaper and dark, cozy corners ruled the roost. Toss in a small, well-appointed bar, a new American menu conceived by Executive Chef Anthony Meidenbauer and executed by Chef Francisco Campa, with desserts by Top Chef Just Desserts contestant Carlos Enriquez, and you have a recipe for success…along with (we hope), further proof that what Vegas needs these days is not another 8 million dollar, 200 seat restaurant, but rather a return to places on a human scale, ones that look and feel inviting from the moment you pass through their doors.
ELV was privileged to get the very first look at The Barrymore (and the very first bites coming out of the kitchen), and all he could think of is how appropriate the new/old design is for the new Las Vegas, and how a number of new/old restaurants could learn a thing or two by paying attention to the details going into the joint. If the El Cortez ever gets around to upgrading The Flame, this is the design template it should use. Ditto the new American menu…with lots of familiar items given a nice tweak here or a spin there — like well-seasoned fried calamari with a classic, Spanish romesco sauce, or beautiful scallops over an oxtail ragout.
The Barrymore is scheduled to open September 3rd.
In the Royal Resort Hotel and Casino
99 Convention Center Drive
Las Vegas, NV 89109