The secret to eating crabs is to remove the shell from the meat, not the meat from the shell. – John Mathew Smith (Wine executive, Burgundy lover, crab junkie)
If you think meat is murder, then ELV suggests gettin’ crabby at Crab Corner. If you’re lucky, John and Irene Smith, formerly of Wilmington (Delaware, not North Carolina) will be there to give you a lesson in carefully calibrated, coordinated and creative crab cracking.
Being former restaurateurs in Delaware, the Smiths know their way around blue crabs the way Click and Clack do around a carburetor, and watching John artfully demolish one to expose all of that sweet meat is a thing of beauty.
As for the restaurant, it is one crabby place indeed. From the Maryland flag on the wall to the Ravens posters all around, you know you’re in blue crab heaven the minute you walk in. Ordering a half dozen or so is the best way to get started — they’re priced from $45-$85 dozen, depending on size — and six are about the perfect lunch or dinner for two.
The rest of the menu is as crustacean-laden as you would expect. The crab soup is filled with veggies and beans and lots of flaky meat from half a small crab, but we found it a tad under-seasoned, but hardly any fault could be found with the crab cakes — which we took in both mini- and regular-sized form. They might not be quite in the same league as Faidley’s, but are as stuffed and lush with crab as any you’ll find in this land-lubber-y part of the world.
We even found ourselves taken with our deep-fried, soft-shell crab sandwich — properly deep fried in clean oil, sitting on a dense, fresh bun, accompanied by good tartar sauce, and the ripest tomato we’ve seen in a restaurant in months.
All told, you’ve got to admire what they’re doing on the corner of Flamingo and Eastern — bringing a restaurant to town that’s trying (and succeeding) at doing a few simple things well with outstanding ingredients.
Hey! THERE’S an idea for you!
Our lunch for two came to $67, including a $15 tip. The Smiths provided the steamed Callinectes sapidus.
4161 South Eastern Ave.
Las Vegas, NV 89119