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Rosemary’s chef/owner Michael Jordan cut his chef’s teeth under Emeril Lagasse, so “feather-light” and “his cooking” aren’t words that often collide in the same sentence.

Truth be told, our meal last night wasn’t weight watchers in scope, execution or calorie count, but the Portuguese shrimp in a piquant garlic sauce, and a perfectly pan-seared pompano sitting in a corn coulis, were as streamlined as any plates we’ve had here — and no less tasty for it.

Are the days of cheesy p0lenta and parsnip purees with a marmalade here, and a cous cous there, and here a hash, there a hush,* everywhere a sauce sauce, behind him? No, all the old reliables are still on the menu (ham and crawfish risotto, brick chicken, brioche-crusted salmon, et al) because the regulars love them and they are delicious, but look to his specials most nights, and we’re betting you can leave just as satisfied and with less of belly bomb.

John M. Smith of Wirtz Beverage was treating ELV along with his Chevaliers Du Tastevin friends Paul and Donna Adams and a certain Mr. Jeffery _____(who ELV, befuddled by a few belts of boffo Burgundy kept calling Jerry), so we do not know how much the tariff was. Regardless…merci beaucoup to Mr. Smith and Wirtz for the unexpected tasty respite!

ROSEMARY’S

8125 West Sahara Ave.

Las Vegas, NV 89117

702.869.2251

http://www.rosemarysrestaurant.com/

* puppy