Is the pizza at Due Forni (do-AY FOR-nee) as good as Settebello’s? It depends.
Sorry for the lawyer-like answer, but it’s the only way to respond to the Neapolitan pies here. The crust is good…very good in fact…possessed of just the right amount of chewy-yet-firm texture. Serious ingredients lie atop it (like its cross-town rival) like boffo bufala mozz, good tomatoes, and the freshest basil.
What these pies don’t have is the smoky, charred crustiness characterizing the competition. Depending how you feel about these things, this is either a plus or a minus. To our way of thinking, it is a savvy move on Chef Carlos Buscaglia’s part. His twin, 900 degree, state-of-the-art gas ovens turn out perfect pies in minutes, without the hassle of constantly re-jiggering the heat source, and if DF becomes as busy as we think it will be, he’s going to need all the manpower he has to keep those pizzas flying in and out of them.
The thin, “Roman” crust pie (not pictured) is appropriately cracker-like and topped with good San Daniele prosciutto, arugula, and a vin cotto (balsamico-like, sweet vinegar) reduction — making the whole greater than the sum of its parts. While we’re not a fan of these saltine-like creations, many are, and you won’t find a better version within ten miles.
We gave Buscaglia a little grief for serving tomatoes in his otherwise good panzanella (bread salad) in February (“But that’s what people want,” he sighed), so we’ll give him a pass on this seasonal transgression, and forgive his sins because his turkey polpette (meatballs) are so well seasoned, and because they sit in a superior, San Marzano marinara. And his semolina gnocchi with smoked bacon was a clear, unabashed, unapologetic apotheosis of smoky pork and light, creamy goodness.
The menu here is decidedly small — owing to the relatively tiny kitchen facilities — highlightling this as first and foremost a pizza restaurant, with most other options operating as adjuncts to the main event. But it’s a testament to Buscaglia’s skill that every item is done with a degree of precision heretofore unseen among our neighborhood pizzerias. More than a few can now consider this to be the standard-setter for serious pies, and we don’t think it’s too far a stretch to say, as with D.O.C.G. on the Strip, Due Forni may be raising the bar in a number of ways for Eye-talians off of it.
Desserts are only three in number, and we tried just one: whipped, sweetened bufala ricotta drizzled with honey and candied pistachios, that will give the Greek yogurt specialty at Milos a run for your taste buds. It is simplicity personified (just like Milos’ improbably thick, honey-drenched version), addictive beyond belief, and shows what a great chef can do with a few good ingredients.
Our staff didn’t pay for its meal, but did leave a $30 tip.
3555 South Town Center Drive Suite 105
Las Vegas, NV 89135