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Sometimes, after ELV and his staff have spent night after night, pursuing their hedonistic and dilettante concerns at our swanky hotels, there’s nothing like a bowl of gumbo from M & M Soul Food Cafe to bring their palates back to reality.

Nothing fancy mind you, just a big bowl of spicy sausage, good, fresh crab, rice and chicken, that has real kick to it.

This isn’t a Louisiana gumbo — no thick, smoky roux here — but a Mississippi stew of good ingredients that is soul-fully satisfying.

Share a big bowl with a few friends, along with some oxtails in brown gravy and barbecued chicken with fried okra, and you have the perfect antidote to that life of reckless, culinary abandon you’ve been leading.

The meal above (plenty for four, with unlimited servings of fresh johnnycakes) came to $54. Sometimes the gumbo is only available on Fridays and Saturdays, so call ahead.

M & M SOUL FOOD CAFE

3923 West Charleston Blvd.

Las Vegas, NV 89102-1620

702.453.7685