Wine is sunlight, held together by water. – Galileo

“I rather like bad wine,” said Mr. Mountchesney; “one gets so bored with good wine.” – Benjamin Disraeli

If you love good, inexpensive wine — and let’s face it who doesn’t? — you’ve gotta love the gamay grape.

November 19th marked the 26th year Georges Duboeuf has celebrated the release of his Beaujolais Nouveau wine by flying cases of the stuff to America (on the day of its release in France) and making a big deal over what is, at best, a quaffable, unassuming drink.*

But give the devilish Duboeuf his due, because whether or not you think his “nouveau” wine is worth your time or trouble, there’s no doubt the cru Beaujolais (also on display at a media lunch in the Eiffel Tower Restaurant), are serious stuff. His ’06 Julienas and Moulin a Vent both blew us away with depth and flavors more befitting a Cote de Beaune burgundy.

When we weren’t enjoying the bustlines on the Folies Bergere girls, we also enjoyed some traditional, wine-friendly French fare, that will have us back at the ETR (a place we wrote off long ago as overpriced and mediocre) in no time. And keep in mind, there’s probably no better value in wine than the Cru beaujolais — most of which never cost more than $30/bottle.

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* We found the ’08 Beaujolais Nouveau acidic, with a nose and palate of tart cherries. Slightly chilling the bottle (as recommended by Yann Bourigault), brings the fruit flavors forward, mutes the acidity, and makes it a most refreshing drink. At room temperature (70-75 degrees F) you will not enjoy the wine. Served properly, Beaujolais Nouveau is perfect with the typical, American, heavy holiday meal.